LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

[m beezo]

Looking for some input from someone who might have used both products. Not just the dust cutting issues but how it looks, how it seems to be holding up. Interested in hearing some thoughts on pros and cons. Either product would be primed only and final color put on after it was installed.

[tomthetoolman40]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

I've installed both. The smartside is easier cutting and definitely lighter to pack around. And the hardy will crack/break if you don't carry it vertically.
That said, the hardy looks nicer in my opinion.

[Chuck Kiser]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

Mark,

Price aside, both about the same to purchase, the LP SmartSide is a far superior product, easier to install, longer lengths 16' vs 12', much better warranty 5/50 and much more damage resistant. Combine these features with matching trim, soffit and faux cedar shake offerings and to me it is a no brainer. The few things to remember are proper type of nail, nailing schedule and spacing. With fiber cement you butt the panels (they are wet from the factory and will shrink) with LP Smartside you have to gap the panels about 3/16" (from the factory this product is very dry and will expand on the wall). PM me with any specifics or call 708-497-5868. I'm a Gold level installer and trainer on this product line.

[tomthetoolman40]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

Chuck,
Which caulking do you prefer for the joints?

[Chuck Kiser]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

Tom,

There are a number of good quality sealants for this application. One that comes to mind is Quad. Available in many colors. Then rule of thumb is this: if the price is low, so is the quality. Do not risk the end result of a great siding job to save a few bucks on cheap sealants.

[m beezo]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

Chuck, how do you feel about traveling to ST Louis and training me so I can do the job?

Anyway, couple of things I noticed is that the panel is not primed on the back. Kind of goes against priming everything else that gets installed for siding. You have an answer for that?

Secondly, I am not a huge fan of the gap you purposely leave instead of butting things together. I know that is what the factory says. I can understand the need to gap at the ends but the joint where the two butt in the middle of the wall kind of goes against what I am looking for. The look seems ok with the spacing and then the caulk joint in between?

I worked with a guy doing some fiber cement and he had a neat little peel and stick that he put behind every joint even tho he had a rain screen detail. I do not recall where he got it but it was kind of a pad that he tore off a sheet when he needed it and they were pre cut and ready to use. That anything you recommend? Asking because I do not think just a caulk joint for the next 50 years is a good thing to count on.

Lastly, does LP make a corner that has a groove that you can cover the joints instead of caulking. Kind of like a vinyl corner that the siding would slide into so you have the joint covered but might not need to caulk it since it would be hidden and it would allow it to move. Seems to me that someone has such a corner but it may have been in some for of PVC.

[tomthetoolman40]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

These are probably what your guy was using. http://materialsrawbuilding.blogspot...ng-100-pk.html

You should be able get them at the lumber yard. They are a lot quicker than trying to position and nail flashing behind the joints.

[Chuck Kiser]

Re: LP SmartSide vs Fiber Cement siding

Chuck, how do you feel about traveling to ST Louis and training me so I can do the job?

I'm always up for a road trip Mark. The folks at LP are really easy to work with. Find your local rep and they will support you.

Anyway, couple of things I noticed is that the panel is not primed on the back. Kind of goes against priming everything else that gets installed for siding. You have an answer for that?

No need for back priming. The product is not coated with a waterproofing agent, it is throughout the product. Every flake and chip is saturated with glues and resins prior to pressing into sheets. The prime coat on the front is to provide good bonding to the paint.

Secondly, I am not a huge fan of the gap you purposely leave instead of butting things together. I know that is what the factory says. I can understand the need to gap at the ends but the joint where the two butt in the middle of the wall kind of goes against what I am looking for. The look seems ok with the spacing and then the caulk joint in between?

The joint is required due to expansion of the product. Keep in mind though with the 16' lengths many field joints can be eliminated with good planning. The joint technically does not have to caulked (sealed), as long as the cut ends are primed and painted you are OK. You do need a mechanical backer on field joints. The peel and stick work fine but I prefer to use pieces of coil stock. Cut them into strips about 3" wide and as tall as you need them, bend a lip about 3/16" on the top of each 'card', slide that between the joint and nail.

I worked with a guy doing some fiber cement and he had a neat little peel and stick that he put behind every joint even tho he had a rain screen detail. I do not recall where he got it but it was kind of a pad that he tore off a sheet when he needed it and they were pre cut and ready to use. That anything you recommend? Asking because I do not think just a caulk joint for the next 50 years is a good thing to count on.

A good quality sealant will last many, many years. When you do caulk the joint do not overfill it. When the product expands it will push the sealant out of the joint and you will have 'worms' on the wall.

Lastly, does LP make a corner that has a groove that you can cover the joints instead of caulking. Kind of like a vinyl corner that the siding would slide into so you have the joint covered but might not need to caulk it since it would be hidden and it would allow it to move. Seems to me that someone has such a corner but it may have been in some for of PVC.

LP does not make such an animal but you can make your own out of any trim material you want to use. Keep in mind though the ends that tuck under the trim still need to be primed and painted.

See my comments in the body of your text.