Re: KUV van
Like Phil, I to have an old type III ambulance.
Phil covered most the good points. I'll add a couple more.
They're Cheap. Especially if you get a pre-1995
On most of these (but not all) the tool box doors use the exact same kind of latches as your car door. Same large diameter pin with a capture latch. No sliding bolt like most boxes. They ARE secure when locked.
The doors have full length, stainless steel hinges that are much heavier gauge and higher quality then you see on most utility beds. They don't end up rusting as soon as the paint starts chipping off.
The doors on mine are 2.5" thick. They cannot be bent and pried open with a pry bar.
The taller doors actually have two pins and latches per door.
Speaking of the tall doors. Seriously, the tall compartment(s) is awesome. Mine holds a dewalt miter stand, Long levels, floor standing work light, track saw rails, shovels rake,etc
When you close the tool doors, they close solidly with a satisfying "thunk" like a car door.
They're absolutely watertight. Seriously watertight.
If you like diesel these are common, its actually tougher to find a gas one. I get 15mpg highway and 11 around town. Try finding a KUV with a diesel. I'm sure there out there, but not many.
They ride really smooth, but can still haul a fair amount of weight, especially if you get the adjustable air ride.
Couple pointers on buying one.
Try to find one that you can De-Ambulance the graphics easily. Some have graphics that can more easily be partially or completely stripped to look less ambulance like. On others, nothing short of completely stripping the van will make it look right. If you can get it down to just a simple stripe, once you add your own graphics, it will start to look more "civilian".
Try to get one the doesn't have specially molding body parts to accept the lights. There are plenty of creative ways you can plug the holes left by their removal, if they're in stock body parts. But a wrecking yard will usually provide plenty of donor parts if you need to switch out a grill or fender.
Next to the graphics, the rear doors are one of the things that make it look most like an ambulance. Best thing to do is get rid of the door windows. You can get pre-painted sheet aluminum and fiberglass from suppliers that sell trailer repair parts. You can remove the window and overlay it right on top of the old door skins. This really does a lot to take away the ambulance look from the rear.
Although these have nice cabinets in the back, they're really a waste of space for a contractor. Most guys leave them or do a partial tear out and adapt as necessary, but I prefer to gut them and start over from scratch.
These are easily to find with unbelievably low miles for the age. But as with most things that are to good to be true, the low mileage often is. Not that they don't have low mileage. But its the engine hours that you got to watch out for. These guys idle A LOT. Checking the hours will give you a better idea of engine wear then total mileage. Most the older units have actual hour meters right on the dash. But the newer ones sometime require you to cycle through the computer. But always, always, ALWAYS check the hours before buying.
Anyway. They're obviously not for everyone, but the definitely have some pluses that you cannot get in anything else.
Like Phil, I to have an old type III ambulance.
Phil covered most the good points. I'll add a couple more.
They're Cheap. Especially if you get a pre-1995
On most of these (but not all) the tool box doors use the exact same kind of latches as your car door. Same large diameter pin with a capture latch. No sliding bolt like most boxes. They ARE secure when locked.
The doors have full length, stainless steel hinges that are much heavier gauge and higher quality then you see on most utility beds. They don't end up rusting as soon as the paint starts chipping off.
The doors on mine are 2.5" thick. They cannot be bent and pried open with a pry bar.
The taller doors actually have two pins and latches per door.
Speaking of the tall doors. Seriously, the tall compartment(s) is awesome. Mine holds a dewalt miter stand, Long levels, floor standing work light, track saw rails, shovels rake,etc
When you close the tool doors, they close solidly with a satisfying "thunk" like a car door.
They're absolutely watertight. Seriously watertight.
If you like diesel these are common, its actually tougher to find a gas one. I get 15mpg highway and 11 around town. Try finding a KUV with a diesel. I'm sure there out there, but not many.
They ride really smooth, but can still haul a fair amount of weight, especially if you get the adjustable air ride.
Couple pointers on buying one.
Try to find one that you can De-Ambulance the graphics easily. Some have graphics that can more easily be partially or completely stripped to look less ambulance like. On others, nothing short of completely stripping the van will make it look right. If you can get it down to just a simple stripe, once you add your own graphics, it will start to look more "civilian".
Try to get one the doesn't have specially molding body parts to accept the lights. There are plenty of creative ways you can plug the holes left by their removal, if they're in stock body parts. But a wrecking yard will usually provide plenty of donor parts if you need to switch out a grill or fender.
Next to the graphics, the rear doors are one of the things that make it look most like an ambulance. Best thing to do is get rid of the door windows. You can get pre-painted sheet aluminum and fiberglass from suppliers that sell trailer repair parts. You can remove the window and overlay it right on top of the old door skins. This really does a lot to take away the ambulance look from the rear.
Although these have nice cabinets in the back, they're really a waste of space for a contractor. Most guys leave them or do a partial tear out and adapt as necessary, but I prefer to gut them and start over from scratch.
These are easily to find with unbelievably low miles for the age. But as with most things that are to good to be true, the low mileage often is. Not that they don't have low mileage. But its the engine hours that you got to watch out for. These guys idle A LOT. Checking the hours will give you a better idea of engine wear then total mileage. Most the older units have actual hour meters right on the dash. But the newer ones sometime require you to cycle through the computer. But always, always, ALWAYS check the hours before buying.
Anyway. They're obviously not for everyone, but the definitely have some pluses that you cannot get in anything else.
Comment