Welcome to the JLC Forums – Read-Only Edition

Please note that the JLC forums are now displayed read-only. New posts are no longer possible, but the collected work of building professionals sharing information remains available here as a resource to the JLC community.
See more
See less

Shimming a Pedestal Sink

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Shimming a Pedestal Sink

    Recently tiled my bathroom floor and it happen to be a tad unlevel where the pedestal sink will be setting. Whats the best way and material to shim the base. Does polybend grout (Custom) need to be sealed and what is the best brand and kind to use if it does. Mark Efird

  • #2
    Re: Shimming a Pedestal Sink

    When confronted with an out-of-level pedestal sink, I use a continuous-rim, dry-cutting diamond blade to grind away the bottom of the pedestal. I use carbon paper to help mark the high spots.

    You first need to ask about conditions when it comes to sealing a grout. Is it exterior? In a wet area? On a kitchen counter? In an area where it is likely contact any materials that stain?

    Then you need to ask about the grout itself. "Who makes the grout?", and "What brand is it?" are not important questions. "What color?", "What type?" (regular, latex, epoxy, other), "What kind of maintenance?" are.

    I have never seen a grout that would not stain, regardless of the type of grout, or how its surface was sealed.

    There are ways, though, to minimize staining: strike all joints when the grout is being installed, use a high-quality commercial or industrial grade of sealer or impregnator, and cleanup all spills PROMPTLY.

    If your grout manufacturer also makes a commercial grade sealer, THAT is the product to use.


    • #3
      Re: Shimming a Pedestal Sink

      I concur , that it is nice to shape the bottom of the china with a diamond blade: BUT: not all are china and someone may want a new level floor at some point in time, and keep their $1200 pedestal!

      Firstly, the basin is to set in and of itself, without the base. Either sheet steel (when plumbing won't allow blocking, or blocking achieves this. (Unless you want a little girl to fall backwards through a tub enclosure , like the inept plumbing I once testified against that caused this.
      Secondly, the Code (UPC-of course) sez all fixtures must be sealed where they meet floors or walls, preventing seepage of nasty stuff and infestation. This merely means caulk (tile calk like used around tub/tile meetings or sillicone or adhesive. Grout is not necessary , and as a 'ol (hate the term master or contractor - plumber is just fine) plumber, we find that to be dumb as a four letter word.
      Many situations find us having to access the wall waste connection or sink tailpiece area. And whereas we (oui/I) now have some slick tools to work the traps in the tighest places (see Pasco Tools) This part of the fixture is needed to be easily removable ( since all traps ARE/SHALL be EASILY ACCESSIBLE .
      What this means is: level/square your bowl to the wall and floor and set the base with shims ( plastic and clear preferably. Then calk the base. If its really bad you might want to slightly rubber shim a tad of the bowl to base area, to split the difference... ron


      • #4
        Re: Shimming a Pedestal Sink

        Ron is correct about the BOWL of the sink needing to be secured to blocking within the wall. The attachment should be secure enough to safely support the entire weight of the sink bowl should the pedestal break, or otherwise fail.

        My advice pertains to the pedestal when it is installed over an out-of-level floor.