Wrap around lolly column

[Dani D.]

One of our customers ask me to hide a lolly column in his basement. The idea is to end with a square column in red oak.
I can think in a couple ways to do this but I'm trying to found the best aproach. How do you guys usually do this? Is there any way to prep the lolly column that is not 2x4 framing?

[James Eggert]

check with www.mcfeelys.com
They have some hinged column brackets so that after you snap them on you can apply drywall or 1x.
Pay attention to sizes for your column.

[Beernut74]

Dani, recently I had the same problem with a customer. What I did was determine how big of a square column the customer wanted. Lets say it is six inches. I cut a 6"x6" block out of a 2x8. With a compass, layout the outside diameter of your column from the center of the 6"x6" block plus the thickness of your table saw blade. Now rip the block in half on the table saw so that you split the circle in half. Now cut out the half circles with either a jig saw or band saw and now you have two halves that will fit around the lolly forming a square. Using PL Premium and some screws, wrap the column with the halves and screw them together. Don't be afraid the use the adhesive. The screws will draw the blocks up nice and tight. Once the adhesive sets the blocks will be rock hard. Of course your layout of these blocks is crucial to a straight and square finished column. Make a number of these blocks and fasten them along the length of the column. Hope this helped. Any questions and I'll be happy to help...

[Harlan]

I would build a "U" out of either 2X (for an 8-in column) or 1X plywood (for a 6-in. column) and slip it around the lally column as your framing member (substrate). Square it up so it's oriented correctly in the room and plumb it in all directions and then screw the "bottom" of the "U" into the lally column with self-tapping metal screws after pre-drilling the holes. Then affix the final piece to complete the square substrate for your oak column. Use as many screws as are necessary so the substrate is very stable around the lally column. This way, the orientation for the finished column is set from the start, and the column itself can be built in a shop off-site and slipped around your square, straight and plumb substrate.

Hope this helps,

Harlan.

[RJ Davisson]

I don't know if this company makes a square column wrap or just octagonal. http://www.pioneerpostcovers.com/index.html
If not, their products are an option for future column wrap jobs. There are probably other companies out there that have similar solutions but it's the only one I've used since my supplier carries these. Very simple. The last time I used one about 2 years ago it cost $110...sometimes I don't always want to make everything from scratch.

>>RJ

[Dancing Dan]

I remember reading a piece where someone glued the column in place with expanding foam - never tried it myself.

[Greg Di]

I do pole camouflaging often. The fastest way I've found to do it is to take TWO 2x6s (for a 4" pole)and shoot them onto the lally column plumb and square to each other. Usually 3 or 4 hilti nails does the trick. I then build two L-shaped pieces out of 1.2" plywood and attach them to each other with 18 ga nails. It gives you a nice fast, square, solid base for rock or wood finishing. Plus, you can tie nicely into the beam that you are normally soffiting above it.

[HenryP]

Harlan's method is how we have done it. When finishing a basement, put the lally in a partition. When this is not possible, design it into a seating/work area. The only thing I would add to Harlan's tight fit wrap method would be to spec square edge stock and a 3/8" round over bit at the edges. Often a high speed todler will hit this and it will be the difference between a bruise and stiches. If you want to get neurotic about the wrap...stop the profile short of the ceiling.
Henry

[phillip]

Originally Posted by Greg Di

shoot them onto the lally column

I would be scared to do that on some lolly columns how much weight is on the column?
is the column rated for that much weight?
is the structural integretity effected?

I sort of do it like Beernut74 ecept I mount one side of the mounting blocks to a piece of ply wood so everything is lined up from the start

[Greg Di]

I can't imagine how shooting a tiny (relative) steel nail into a steel and concrete object can affect it structurally.

I actually read about the technique in a JLC article a while back.

I'm not losing sleep over it...

[Greg Di]

Jim Eggert,

I just checked out those McFeeley parts you mentioned. They look pretty swell. I'm going to try them on my next job. Sure is easier than my method!

Greg

[Dani D.]

Thanks guys. I went with beernut method and the column it is already up, the customer loves it , my boss it is impressed and even I think it looks pretty good for my first one. Glad I found this jobsite.

[Joe Carola]

Dani,

I kmow your done but the lumber yard I go to had a sample of lally column covers from a company called Madrid. It's comes in two pieces and you use spacers, glue and biscuts to put them together. I don't know if anyone has used them or seen them before but here's the link.

http://www.madridinc.com/before_after.html

[btshaw]

I'm sorry I got into this late. I just started reading this forum.

I like the Pioneer post covers, but the first thing I do is throw away the trim pieces they give you. They're very thin MDF and it looks better with a bigger crown & base.
Besides that I've tried quite a few different techiniques and this is what I've found works best.
I rip birch plywood strips (or better material for stain) at 45 degrees and glue them up around the column. after the glue sets I shim the box from the floor up tight against the beam, making sure all is plumb. Then I drill holes all four sides top & bottom and shoot in as much expanding foam as will fit. The holes get covered up with the base & crown. last I round over the edges with a router leaving about 6 inches from the top & bottom which softens the edge and leaves a nice detail.

Bryan