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What do you think is the best option for exterior fascia trim to be painted hunter green? The pre primed pine that was up there is rotting and finger joints are blotted.
Red cedar or white cedar?
What do you think is the best option for exterior fascia trim to be painted hunter green? The pre primed pine that was up there is rotting and finger joints are blotted.
Red cedar or white cedar?
This is exactly why we always chastise rookies for not filling their profile. We have no clue where you are, and therefore what's available in your area and what your weather is like.
Dick would probably say redwood, not cement. In my area we don't have 2 kinds of cedar, and certainly no redwood or cypress. I use cedar, any kind I can get.
1. Why is this question in Building Science?, should be in Exterior Details.
2. His location says western Maine.
3. Material choice is basically endless dependent on budget but I would rule out FG on anything exterior, that stuff is for hacks.
4. In western Maine, he could get northern white cedar from Liberty, Maine or several other sources in that neck of the woods.
5. Primed radiata performs pretty well down here but...not local.
Down here I can get it milled to spec, but not dried.
I don't know the difference if any in life expectancy between the two, but I believe red has more tannins, which mean you worry about extract bleeding through.
Last summer, I replaced some ground level 2x white cedar decking that was around 30 rd old. It was never treated with anything. So you get an idea that it lasts.
Best practice with cedar, as in any exterior wood, is to treat it with a preservative such as Woodlife first, then oil primer, all 6 sides before installation, then paint. And prime the end cuts.
Personally, if it was my choice between red and white, I'd choose by price and finish it properly.
What do you think is the best option for exterior fascia trim to be painted hunter green? The pre primed pine that was up there is rotting and finger joints are blotted.
Red cedar or white cedar?
It probably doesn't matter which cedar you use. You need to look at why the existing trim is rotting. Is it not properly flashed? If there is an issue with the flashing, get that taken care of, and when you put your cedar trim on, paint it on all sides with an oil base primer. Two coats of primer would be even better. Then you can use a water based finish coat in the color of your choice.
Steel fascia comes in hunter green, and looks pretty good.
Kent
We have went away from all fiber trims including Miratec.
I can show you plenty of pictures of swelling Miratec.
Mark Parlee
BESI(building envelope science institute) Envelope Inspector
EDI Certified EIFS Inspector/Moisture Analyst/Quality Control/Building Envelope II
EDI Seminar Instructor
Level one thermographer (Snell) www.thebuildingconsultant.com
You build to code, code is the minimum to pass this test. Congratulations your grade is a D-
You could do like this, done in TX, and use nothing but heavy gage bright spangle G90 galvanized steel for everything. This 13-year-old house has its eaves, rakes, soffits, skylight boxes, and the chimney all done that way.
Mark Parlee
BESI(building envelope science institute) Envelope Inspector
EDI Certified EIFS Inspector/Moisture Analyst/Quality Control/Building Envelope II
EDI Seminar Instructor
Level one thermographer (Snell) www.thebuildingconsultant.com
You build to code, code is the minimum to pass this test. Congratulations your grade is a D-
Mark,
is the Miratec that you see problems with the new stuff and in recently installed? I have some on my house that is close to 15, maybe 20 years old and I love the stuff. I have used in but it has been at least 5 years before I used it.
That TX job has G90 galv on all but the roofing, which is the premium paint-job on galvalume called "preweathered Galvalume."
Going on, you must pay attention to the direction arrows painted on the underside. It's a metallic paint, and a reversed panel will stick out like a sore thumb.
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