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  1. #1

    Default re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    Hello,
    I have a window (two picture options shown below) which was recently installed. The metal flashing will be installed next week, but the termination of the WRB has not yet been sealed.

    It is a face sealed window.

    The area of concern is where the SBPO typar terminates to the exterior window frame. I am trying to determine which is the better detail by using sealant or sheathing tape to terminate the WRB

    The idea I had behind this detail, is that there is an opportunity for any water that penetrates to the window frame, will be able to drain away under the typar.

    is this a good detail and would you make any suggestions?
    thanks

    WINDOW DETAIL TYPAR.jpg
    Last edited by hollow door; 12-08-2013 at 10:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    Drain away how? You're showing a bead of caulk at the outside of the brick sill, so nothing inside that assembly will drain to the outside.

  3. #3

    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    the bead of sealant between the brick and the concrete sill is just for a hairline crack at the joint and serves no other purpose

    there is no sealant under the wood frame. It then could pass over (on top) of the brick concrete connection over that sealant , and then under the typar. It would then hit the aluminum flashing (i am not sure if there is suppose to be sealant there). are you saying it will stop at the aluminum flashing?

  4. #4
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    Suburbia (Washington, DC area)
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    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    I am not sure I understand this drawing.
    Is the leftmost dark line a metal flashing or a concrete sill?
    Was the window installed with only typar housewrap under the unit, rather than an impermeable self-adhered flashing?
    Also, what climate are you in? That changes some things.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Michigan
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    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    I thought that line was the metal flashing he was first talking about, now I'm not so sure, he's talking about a concrete sill.

    I've never seen a concrete sill on top of a brick sill, but it needs clarification. Label that drawing so we know what's metal and what's concrete.

  6. #6

    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    Toronto. 4000 HDD (celcius), moderate rain, low to moderate wind.

    The existing wood window frame was 55 years old (that was removed). It was painted white and then nailed into the block. None of the frame had rotten in all of this time, although it was well weathered.

    I decided to go with option 1. Due to a miscommunication between two parties, I have found myself in this predicament. sufficed to say i am not impressed with this detail.

    The black line is aluminum flashing. The sill is concrete brick, in front and formed concrete on top of a block wall for the rest. I have never seen it before either.

    its not a self adhered membrane, only typar

    WINDOW DETAIL TYPAR V3.jpg
    Last edited by hollow door; 12-10-2013 at 08:53 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    thanks for the clarifications.
    I would say that in the current condition, you are 100% dependent on the flashing and/or window being 100% watertight.

    Based on my experiences with leaky window units, I believe the area below the window unit itself should be protected by an impermeable, watertight pan made of SAF, metal, or a preformed plastic. In your situation, you'd have to pull the window to do this. Anything you do short of this is a significant compromise, in my opinion.

    Tucking a watertight SAF tape as far up under the Typar as you can reach would be a bit of an improvement, as it would help protect the front of the wood below the window. If you were to use this compromise approach, sealing the top edge of the SAF would also be advisable, and the Typar flap should be 'skip taped', leaving gaps for water to leave from behind the Typar should it enter somehow.
    You are not protected from many modes of failure though. ANy leak through or around the window unit will likely get into the framing and cause damage.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    sonoma ,calif
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    1,814

    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    "Based on my experiences with leaky window units, I believe the area below the window unit itself should be protected by an impermeable, watertight pan made of SAF, metal, or a preformed plastic. In your situation, you'd have to pull the window to do this. Anything you do short of this is a significant compromise, in my opinion."
    Well this was to be a quote from previous thred -guess that wasn't how it is done

    Read this again .Are you saying that you are finding that the leaks you have uncovered are from the window frame itself and not a flashing mistake or lack of .What exactly is failing .
    Last edited by joseph; 12-25-2013 at 12:04 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default Re: basement window sheathing tape termination question

    hollow door

    what program are you using to dray the attachments.
    Mark Parlee
    BESI(building envelope science institute) Envelope Inspector
    EDI Certified EIFS Inspector/Moisture Analyst/Quality Control/Building Envelope II
    Level one thermagrapher (Snell Training)
    www.thebuildingconsultant.com
    www.parleebuilders.com
    You build to code, code is the minimum to pass this test. Congratulations your grade is a D-

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