Energy-efficient framing using single-ply headers

[IamTheWalrus]

We've an upcoming project with ten-foot ceilings and eight-foot window and door opening heights. Need to do 24-o.c. framing in exterior walls and want single-ply headers.

Single-ply headers done the way I envision have notched cripples above these openings, with the purpose of the ripped leg of the cripples being to provide better nailing for the tall interior casings when finishing out.

See the pic, attached. Nailing is pretty straightforward when building the walls flat on decks, with 16d spikes through bottom plates into both header and cripples, and same through header face into cripple downlegs.

We'll use either LVL or LSL, depth dependent on loading, for headers, so we can expect little or no depth shrinkage which screws up loadings.

Have done this before, the single ply thing, but not with the notched cripples. Then, to gain some nailing, we placed some little scraps of ripped 2x material, at the right width, up on the ledge of that plate, using a blob of PSL urethane glue, to fix in place. We put them on stud layout so we could count on something being there when trimming.

I like this notched crip thing better, I think. Make up a cut schedule, set up at the table saw with a sled for making the crosscut, then rip with the blade way up. They should go quickly for a whole house job that needs about 120 of them. Rip each, the waste splits out, a big chisel or a barking slick, whatever, quickly cleans up the cut.

What would you do? We want as much wall insulation as possible in this job, and think that doubled headers and rigid foam between is too costly.

[Nate E]

I think I like it. The notched cripple stud is a seemingly good detail. If you wanted better nailing for interior casings, the header could be shifted to the interior of the wall, no? It would just be more of a PITA to insulate.
-Nate

[IamTheWalrus]

Inside, you must insulate before sheathing. We prefer not to do that.

[parkwest]

Isn't "energy efficient" and "ten foot ceilings with eight foot tall doors and windows" an oxymoron?

[TWhite]

I think Park has it right!

[IamTheWalrus]

Of course it is, but the jurisdiction does not have any restrictions on ceiling height, nor do they seem to care if people still build mcmansions with monstrous two-story rooms and entrances.

All they know is that they have done good by adopting the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code. They probably all drive those little Japanese cars I call by the name "Pious."

I'm just showing them how I'm trying to get a more efficient wall assembly.

But don't worry, big brother will have his way and the energy police will come down on all this inefficient building. We'll be living in little low-ceilinged styrofoam boxes. No more mcmansions.

And wait until they have the political balls and brashness to impose a code on EXISTING BUILDINGS. 'Cause that is where the energy is being lost, for sure. Not the new ones.

[dlhunter]

I would rather just double the plate below the header as opposed to the notched dealies.

[worthy]

Why just the 24" spacing?

Advanced framing also encompasses a single top plate, no cripples, no jack studs. (Unless there are seismic or wind considerations that come into effect.)

[Ted S.]

All they know is that they have done good by adopting the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code.

Where are you located?

[jimAKAblue]

I've done many single ply headers and I typically analyze each situation and design a technique that meets each opening's needs while also minimizing my framing labor. I was also keen on eliminating quality issues.

In your situation, I most likely would push the header up tight to the top plate and frame under it. I'd consider, using a doubled 2x at the head of the window if there was a substantial need for casing backing.

HOWEVER, if the header was needed to support something on the exterior, that technique might not be possible. We sometimes ran into structural requirements that used our window header to help support exterior brick loads. They would bolt a steel lintel (angle iron) to the header and it would carry the brick load. That technique was common over wide garage doors.

Assuming that there is no exterior facade loading, and you can push the header up tight: the next question becomes, do we notch or not?

In most instances, I wouldn't notch. However, that look might set some people (builders, owners, inspectors, etc) off because the cut studs would be dangling in the breeze (metaphorically speaking). If I was concerned about that look (I'm not), then I would usually have two solutions. 1)add a full width member to the bottom of the header. 2)rip a piece and add it on top of the cut studs.

Of course, the third solution would be to notch.

If I had to make 120 notches, I'd probably look to solution #1. And, I wouldn't want to hear any argument that the extra framing member was causing more thermal bridging. I think that's sorta silly when you are considering the amount of glass that is associated with each opening. But, if the decision makers insisted on eliminating that tiny bit of thermal bridging, then I'd concede and switch to option #2 and rip the "top cripple plate" for each opening.

[jimAKAblue]

In our system of framing, we never precut the cripples as you are suggesting. We whacked and stacked everything in place. If I was framing that structure, and was forced to notch ever cripple, I'd want to do each window separate. The main reason is that often, the wider stock used for single ply headers often had a significant cup and sometimes a crown to it. I always "read" the imperfections and then custom cut each cripple while ripping it. It made for a better looking framing when I was done. It's not as hard as it sounds.

As an example in another situation: quite often (almost every job), I had to cut in a reverse gable (or two, or three, or ten) on the roof. I used to set up a mini workstation up there by the ridge and cut it in; one at a time. Sometimes, the stock left that comprised the ridge was that last long framing member that no one wanted to use. It might be twisted, warped, crowned etc. The other guys would want to scrap it and order a new ridge board. I would hear none of it. I'd set up that ragged piece and then just visually adjust each plumb cut on each rafter so that the end result was a tight fitting rafter system even if the ridge had a 1/2" twist or 1/4" cup to it.

I call it "carving".

[mike maines]

Jim, I thought it was called boogering?...

[jimAKAblue]

Jim, I thought it was called boogering?...

Technically speaking, it is boogerin' but I was trying to be PC.

[timberwrestler]

Another way that could work, depending on the circumstances is to double or triple the rim joist, and use that as a continuous header.