Flare-out middle-band detail with cedar shingle siding

[IamTheWalrus]

Please comment on this detail. Thanks.

Edit: I just changed the blockout under the frieze belt to one thickness of 5/8 and took out the OSB designation. Thickness of cedar shingle siding under the lap is about 1/2".

[David Meiland]

I did similar on my house. The bottom of the flare could be simplified somewhat--I would omit the copper flashing, push the 1x detail up a bit so that the shingles hang down over it, probably find a way to use slightly fewer pieces.

[Slaughter Construction Co]

I agree. When drawing up details, it is so much easier to put in all those little pieces than actually installing them.

[MarkMc]

...find a way to use slightly fewer pieces.

Esp that OSB blocking.

[someguy]

DSC01036.jpgDSC01017.jpgWe were able to do this with a 2x rip and a rip of 1/2 ply. Where we need nailing we just added rips of strapping.

[IamTheWalrus]

This job's gonna get a bigger boost than what I've done before with smaller two-boost rips.

Just like seen in the pic, attached, what goes under it is a continuation of the multi-piece frieze under roofs.

Simpler might be easier, but if someone wants the big flare and the elaborate bed under, you just gotta spend the time and money.

Go to Houzz.com, search "shingle flare" and you will see boosts with far more work to them than that proposed here.

[NW Architect]

You can eliminate the copper flashing by putting a tall lap in the WRB somewhere above the head of the detail. WRB below is continuous at sheathing plane until it tucks under WRB from above at same plane. WRB from above runs out over horizontal nailers to do the job of the omitted copper

[Nate E]

I would eliminate the need for the flashing by bringing the shingle course below the 1x4 cedar you detailed in the drawing. In lieu of the two rips of 5/8 osb, I would make rips of TYP 2x at an 1.25" and place them where I need to nail the cedar 1x7.
-Nate

[S.Joisey]

What kind of cedar are the shingles?

WRC when wet will deteriorate the copper.

[ThingOfBeauty]

To me, the flashing and shingles seem to terminate too high compared to the trim below, I agree with other comments on that, would run both down further.

I would expect a bit of water behind the shingles during windy rain events, and also be concerned about leaks at the joints in the copper flashing. Seems like a good place for a strip of peel & stick, under the copper at least.
WRC and copper are not ideal together but even on roofs it seems to go a couple of decades, would you be worried about a failure in this scenario? I wouldn't think enough water runs through it to wear out the copper for a long, long, long time.