Tips on making doorways look jamb less

[Spectaculartrim]

Hoping someone has dealt with this. Casing wouldn't look right in a modern home I'm doing work in. The doors are already installed. Should I be thinking of using a drywall preformed detail for drywall, or fill the space between the framing with foam or caulking and skimcoat the gap and the edge of the jamb?

[Alaskan Son]

Whatever you decide on, don't skim coat the gap it will crack almost every time. Maybe not right away, but in short order.

[Alaskan Son]

There are a few better options...

1. L metal over the the of drywall tight to jamb. Jambs should be installed prior to taping probably. Either leave the crack or caulk it.

2. Rip a groove in the jambs and slide one edge of the L metal into that groove. Again, either leave the crack or caulk and paint it.

3. Multiple options that involve L metal and a shadow line, or inset trim detail.

Hope that helps.

[Jerry M]

.... The doors are already installed....

Seems kinda late to be deciding this now. Casing-less jambs seem to be a growing trend. Alaskan Son's suggestions are good. Probably too late, though, to easily cut a kerf in the edge of the jamb (this would be good if the jamb were framing-width and the drywall extended beyond; you don't specify, but I'm guessing the jambs are framing-plus-drywall width, eh?)

I would vote for the shadow line around the jamb. There are products for this. Here is one:

http://www.trim-tex.com/product_cata...egory&catid=24

[Jerry M]

If you want the jamb to "disappear", you can fill the gap and tape to the jamb, but it's better if the jamb is back-beveled slightly to give a little room for mud and tape.

[J.Brad]

I have done this a couple of times this year. The first time I routed a 10mm square rabbit on the outside edge of the jamb, next to a finished drywall bead. The second time we left the jamb square, then butted a drywall shadow gap bead leaving about a half inch gap. Both looked fine.

[Spectaculartrim]

Sounds good. Do you have pics of the finished I can see and show?

[Zak S.]

If you want the jamb to "disappear", you can fill the gap and tape to the jamb, but it's better if the jamb is back-beveled slightly to give a little room for mud and tape.

I usually back bevel 10 or 15 degrees. It's very important to prime the jamb at the bevel to minimize the swelling of the jamb when it gets mudded. Joint should be flat taped to inside edge of the jamb.

[Roger Everett]

The trimless look has been covered several times before. Here is one that should help with the metal revel moulding needed.
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...ght=fry+reglet

This a 3/05/2007 post on the same. Scroll down to #7 and I show the one I've used. And on pg. 2 of the post ( entry #19 ) a fellow shows pics. The web site for the product is

http://www.fryreglet.com/products-shape.htm
It is on the 4th row down -- Z revel moulding. Click it and you will see the sizes it comes in.

HTH
Roger