Recent euro hinge confusion? Here are some rules I follow

[Tom Bainbridge]

Call them what you like, euro hinges / cup hinges / kitchen hinges are confusing.

You just have to get your head around them.

There are three general types, overlay, half overlay and inset (other types exist)

In general all makes have 2mm adjustment up/down, carcass offset and left/right

These things work for me.

I buy only two makes of hinges from my supplier (i happen to use salice and blum) I purchase both from hafele because hafele's technical department are good, my guess is that rockler have a similarly good department

Buy the hinges and the mounting plates separatly, it truely makes a difference.

Always buy mounting plates with adjustment they cost pennies more but they make the job so much easier and quicker.

Buy "click on hinges" IE the hinges click onto the mounting plates hinges without any screws

If you can get "no tool" cups, buy them

These "upgrades" cost me about a quid a hinge, sort of 50 to 75 cents a hinge. They save me hours of 'effing about.

The absolute rule is use a template for the cup offset. It is paramount

There have been many posts recently about the best tool to achieve this.

Use the one that suits you, the tool I use is not shown in recent posts, but the ones shown look good.

[Dutchman]

I'm confused why there is so much confusion. No matter which hinge you use, they are all set the same distance in from the edge of a door...for euro style stuff...I use 15/16" for the center of the bore. As for the bore, either on the drill press or all day long with a forstner with a cordless if you have to.

And adjustable plates are very handy, I love those.

[Tom Bainbridge]

Dutch, therein lies the confusion

If the carass and the door are different thicknesses the cup offset has got to be different.

More importantly, euro hinges are set in millimeters, I note you use 15/16 INCHES as an offset

15/16 inches clearly works for you but you will find that metric layout is more accurate for metric hinges

edit. the best explantion is cookery. If you roughly convert ounces to milligrammes or cups to milligammes, your suffle it will sink like a stone

If you work in the original "dimensions" you have half a chance that the souffle will rise like it should

[Dutchman]

Not in the most recent case for me Tom. 5/4 doors on a carcass of 3/4", same offset, different style hinge.

[Tom Bainbridge]

Dutch, looks like you did your research and talked to the technical dept.

Hafele and it would seem Rockler know exactly wot (what) they are doing. A good technical dept. can save you're ass a dozen times over.

IF you ask the right question..........

[surfcraft]

So Blum specs four different bore distances just to confuse me?

You ARE referring to what on a entry door lock-bore would be "backset"?

Thanks,

JW

[Tom Bainbridge]

surcraft. you are not so far from the mark

There are good reasons for different setbacks of euro / cup hinges.

If the carcass thickness is 18mm and the door thickness is 18mm you need a 00mm mouning plate

If the carcass and or door thickness vary the mounting plate may be 00mm, 2mm or 4mm

[Deansocial]

I use the hettich hinges, i find them better than the blum hinges. All the info on drilling is clear in the book

[dgbldr]

Tom, I think the "confusion' was mostly mine, as I had not dealt with these details before. We don't normally build cabinets.

Thanks to all who helped, I sorted it out next day and got Blum hinges to work even though the cup backspacing (originally bored for Salice) was off by 1 mm.