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  1. #1
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    Default finishing knotty pine

    At present, I'm building a sunroom addition, 16'x16'. My client wants to put knotty pine on the interior. I said, fine, no problem. I don't work too much with knotty pine carsiding, so I'm not sure what is best for a finish coat, so I guess I do have sort of a problem. She wants a clear finish, but I am not certain whether to use shellac, polyurethane or anything else. Any suggestions?
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  2. #2
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    I've used this product http://www.dalyspaint.com/store/inde...&products_id=3 for knotty pine interior woodwork. It takes about 4 coats before you get much build, but it is utterly easy to do, and you can renew it as easily. It has a very nice glow to it, a very low sheen.

    One thing--the rags soaked in this stuff are a serious spontaneous combustion hazard. I let them dry out in the sun, laying on gravel or bare soil away from anything that can burn, and then toss them once they're hardened. I've seen painters burn a house by leaving them in the trash inside.
    Bailer Hill Construction, Inc. - Friday Harbor, WA
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by David Meiland View Post
    I've used this product http://www.dalyspaint.com/store/inde...&products_id=3 for knotty pine interior woodwork. It takes about 4 coats before you get much build, but it is utterly easy to do, and you can renew it as easily. It has a very nice glow to it, a very low sheen.

    One thing--the rags soaked in this stuff are a serious spontaneous combustion hazard. I let them dry out in the sun, laying on gravel or bare soil away from anything that can burn, and then toss them once they're hardened. I've seen painters burn a house by leaving them in the trash inside.
    Thanks for the tip David. I'll check it out.

    How much time between coats on this product?
    Last edited by Johnson; 07-04-2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: added question
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  4. #4
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    I agree with David with one except, and it is a big except. Tung oil is a nut oil, make certian there are no nut allergies in the family.

    Festool now imports an oil finishing system. Look into it. They have specific oils with applicators. Very nice product.

    http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2012...very-Time.aspx

    Tom
    http://chicagocraftsmen.org/2011/06/261.html

    Check with the AHJ, what we say doesn't matter.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    24 hours between coats is what I have done.

    Tom, interesting comment about the nut oil issue. I don't eat peanuts, almonds, soy... maybe I should not be using this stuff? I wear elbow gloves and keep the stuff of myself...
    Bailer Hill Construction, Inc. - Friday Harbor, WA
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    If you have nut allergies, good that you are protecting yourself.

    Tom
    http://chicagocraftsmen.org/2011/06/261.html

    Check with the AHJ, what we say doesn't matter.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by David Meiland View Post
    24 hours between coats is what I have done.
    This is going to really jack up the price. Too long between coats. I'm sure it looks nice, but I need something a little more economical to apply. I've done some research and shellac seems to be a good option.
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  8. #8
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Shellac dries quickly and can be hard to apply evenly because of this. The fumes are strong.

    Water bourne urethane may be a better choice.

    Tom
    http://chicagocraftsmen.org/2011/06/261.html

    Check with the AHJ, what we say doesn't matter.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnson View Post
    Too long between coats.
    Almost all finish material gets processed through my shop and that pine would go out to the job with two coats on it. A third and possibly a fourth would go on in the field.

    The absolute fastest thing you can do is sprayed lacquer, it dries within a few seconds of hitting the surface and can be sanded and recoated right away.

    Another to consider is Benjamin Moore "Stays Clear", which is a fast-drying waterborne finish. It has UV inhibitors, so fir and pine are not going to get that nice warm tone very quickly.
    Bailer Hill Construction, Inc. - Friday Harbor, WA
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  10. #10
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by tjbnwi View Post
    Shellac dries quickly and can be hard to apply evenly because of this. The fumes are strong.

    Water bourne urethane may be a better choice.

    Tom
    How do you minimize the grain raising on pine with urethane?
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  11. #11
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by David Meiland View Post
    Almost all finish material gets processed through my shop and that pine would go out to the job with two coats on it. A third and possibly a fourth would go on in the field.

    The absolute fastest thing you can do is sprayed lacquer, it dries within a few seconds of hitting the surface and can be sanded and recoated right away.

    Another to consider is Benjamin Moore "Stays Clear", which is a fast-drying waterborne finish. It has UV inhibitors, so fir and pine are not going to get that nice warm tone very quickly.
    I've used waterborne urethane on pine before. I had the problem with the grain raising, making it difficult for a smooth finish. This is why I was looking for alternatives.

    I've never used lacquer. Will that yellow over time?
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  12. #12
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Stay away from lacquer Steve, it requires spray equipment and skill. If you don't have a spray booth you'll burn the house down. You can get wb lacquers but the flash of so fast that it's very difficult to get a decent finish on a large surface without spray equipment.

    Stick with WB poly. Before the material goes up apply a coat of zinsser seal coat shellac. let it dry for about an hour then scuff sand with 220 to knock back the fuzz. The material is now sealed and the grain won't raise.

    When in doubt shellac sticks to everything, everything sticks to shellac

    Install the material then finish wit the Wb finish of your choice. Most Wb finishes dry slow enough to flow out when applied by hand but fast enough that they don't get covered in flys and dust like slow drying oil poly or varnish.

    You'll probably need a second coat. Follow directions on the can.

    Shellac has an amber tone, wb finishes are water white in their native state but can be dyed amber. Pine darkens in the light so you it's going to darken with age no matter what you finish with. It darkens a little even with UV resistant finishes.

    Remember to read the MSDS, we don't want a repeat of the kneeling in concrete thread.
    Last edited by dave_k; 07-05-2012 at 06:25 AM.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Quote Originally Posted by dave_k View Post
    Stick with WB poly. Before the material goes up apply a coat of zinsser seal coat shellac. let it dry for about an hour then scuff sand with 220 to knock back the fuzz. The material is now sealed and the grain won't raise. .
    Thanks Dave. I think this might be what I was looking for.
    Quote Originally Posted by dave_k View Post

    Remember to read the MSDS, we don't want a repeat of the kneeling in concrete thread.
    Good reminder! Btw, the knees are all healed up. Scabs off and everything.
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  14. #14
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    We used to use 3 coats of sanding sealer on cedar and it had nice soft sheen.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: finishing knotty pine

    Daves suggestion are very good ones. Instead of Seal Coat (great product BTW) you also have the option of water based sanding sealer.

    Tom
    http://chicagocraftsmen.org/2011/06/261.html

    Check with the AHJ, what we say doesn't matter.

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