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mahogany T&G finish

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  • #16
    Re: mahogany T&G finish

    Originally posted by S.Joisey View Post
    Being able to re-coat without stripping is a big advantage over other penetrating oils.

    Do you scrub the deck to clean it before re coating?
    Yeah, depending on the condition, a light scrubbing with a broom and soapy water to get the surface grime off. I should check with my painter for better info, he's done way more of it than I have. I know Penofin sells a cleaner, but I've never used it, I believe that's only required if excess oil has pooled up or if there is a real serious grime issue, trees dropping sap, etc...

    I tell clients to do it every year at a time when they'll be off the deck/out of town for a week or two. If it's done regularly it is really pretty easy. I have considered adding yearly treatment as an option in the construction cost at sale time, but haven't done that yet.
    “It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it.” - Upton Sinclair

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    • #17
      Re: mahogany T&G finish

      What about mill glaze?

      KFC I think the Penofin cleaner may also be a mill glaze prep....so they claim.
      Tom

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      • #18
        Re: mahogany T&G finish

        Could be. I read somewhere recently (maybe in the mag?) about someone sending every board through an abrasive planer to remove the mill glaze, I kind of rolled my eyes.

        In all honesty, I've never built a deck with "mahogany". I'm only speaking from experience regarding Penofin and Ipe, and with its denseness the prospect of mill glaze never fazed me too much- it's hard for me to imagine the surface burnishing changing the (incredibly slow and shallow) absorption much. That's why I do the multiple coating rigamarole.
        “It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it.” - Upton Sinclair

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        • #19
          Re: mahogany T&G finish

          I read it as well, it made me wonder if such a place existed locally to sand the pieces. Every where I ever read warned that failure to remove mill glaze would risk a short end life. I did it once and it took forever, I cant see selling many. Plus for all the time and effort it lasts 2 years at best before re applying protection.
          Makes a good argument for hem fir solid stain with less maintainence.

          I had a few issues with Aeratis but I hope the manufacturer works out the details because there was alot of good to the product.
          Tom

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          • #20
            Re: mahogany T&G finish

            Just an update on my project -

            Decided to use Sikkens Cetol DEK after seeing it on another porch, and my client approving it.

            DEK is a two coat system so I can coat each board all sides, then top coat after installation. It can also be re-coated without stripping.

            In my research, I found only two products which can be recoated without stripping - DEK and Penofin.

            Penofin is tough to get around here. I would have had to mail order it in.

            I appreciate everyone's input.

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            • #21
              Re: mahogany T&G finish

              [QUOTE=ThingOfBeauty;661151]Many of our clients think it doesn't last long enough.

              .
              You can refinish it 2x/yr if you want your deck to look sweet, but it smells and is sticky for a week or two and costs a lot.QUOTE]

              That is a problem that I have had with just about any finishes. Does not seem to last and even I have a problem with it. I know that the deck/floor is laying flat, catches all the sun and rain, gets furniture moved around on it, plants watered on it and left wet, walked on. And on some of the cans it talks about how long lasting it is. Not until you read the fine print does it say things like done yearly or even twice a year. Seems to me that the advertising world has convinced folks that once it is sealed it will last much longer than it is lasting and that is why we are all upset.

              I have tried TWP, CWF, SuperDeck, as well as the brands like Olympic and Behr and really not sure there is a lot of difference in some of them.

              I know that many of us want to seal all the edges but I wonder if that is really the correct way to do it. As someone who has torn off lots of old TG porches I have yet to see one that had the underside sealed or painted. Of course it could have worn off over the 20 or 30 years it has been nailed down. But I have wondered if by sealing it all once water gets in thru the top it is kind of trapped by the bottom layer of sealer. I know all the arguments about materials not being what they used to be but I have a couple of porches that are less than 10 years old that were sealed all around, and have some rotted boards showing up. One in particular I suspect it is the drip irrigation system they have for the hanging baskets and baskets on the railings. And it has been maintained with a porch floor paint about every 3 years.

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