kitchen sink cutouts

[philthegreek]

I use a fine tooth blade with a negative rake angle and have not had any significant chip out problems.
As far as closeness goes to the back, flip your saw around ;-) LOL. My battery powered one usually get the side cuts close enough to the backsplash for it to work.

Phil

About 16 or 17 yrs ago I helped on a house in Greenwich with my wife's then company. All graphic designers and advertising execs. What a motley crew that was. Americares was worried about a popcorn ceiling, but totally ignored the failing main girder of the house. ;-)

[Allan Edwards]

So Allan, you mentioned your fabricator getting your sinks. I am guessing they either take the time to measure them up or get on line and find model 7612 sink needs this type of cut out and use that if there is no template with the package?

Yes, we have all sinks delivered to fabricator, we under mount many of them and want the fabricator to attach to the slabs. Many of our sinks and lavs have no templates, for us this is the best way to insure proper cut out and in fact our fabricator makes the request.

Here are some photos of various sinks and lavs in my homes:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1122924...CJK3z56Y1_q4Wg

[SteveC]

Beez,
If you have the sink, should be no problem.
If you make a template, should be no problem.
If you hand it off to an unskilled volunteer, guess what ?
BTW When I do a cut out, I screw a cleat to the cut out piece extending past the opening to keep it from dropping.

[Tom Bainbridge]

I can't see your 1/2 inch problem because european tollerances are tighter. Sink cut outs are 10mm smaller than the overlay (10mm is a minor tad bigger than 3/8 inch)

If you can't work to 1/2 inch tollerance, you should be intalling fencing :)

[dlhunter]

If you can't work to 1/2 inch tollerance, you should be intalling fencing :)

Whats the tollerance for fencing?

[Lanya LaPunta]

Hi, Beez.

If the sink does not come with a template, simplest and fewest step method.

You're talking postform laminate, is that correct?

If so, place the sink, upside down, on the counter.

Determine where you want it.

Check the underside of the cabinets to ascertain if there is sufficient clearance.

If so, trace a line around the sink.

Scribe a line, between 1/4" and 3/8' inside your previously drawn line.

Drill corners out with a hole saw (really does not have to be that large) keeping to the inside of the inside line.

Take a jigsaw and cut from hole to hole.

Takes about 5-10 minutes for the entire procedure.

No need to make a template, tape a template, trace a template, etc.

Simply trace the sink.

[Tom Bainbridge]

A more serious reply. Lanya has it perfectly.

If the sink doesn't come with a template, make one. Like he says, it isn't difficult.

His estimate of time is accurate if you are used to the proceedure. If you arn't used to it, allow an extra hour.

My suggestion for "square sinks" use a festool TS55 saw rather than a jigsaw. Lanya's suggestion to cut the corners with a drill bit is good advise if you arn't used to the proceedure

[abonus]

Flip the sink. Mark outside edge. Mark a line 1/4 in from original line as said before.Use a downcutting blade. Tell the volunteer to relax, it's only laminate.

[Lanya LaPunta]

A more serious reply. Lanya has it perfectly.

If the sink doesn't come with a template, make one. Like he says, it isn't difficult.

His estimate of time is accurate if you are used to the proceedure. If you arn't used to it, allow an extra hour.

My suggestion for "square sinks" use a festool TS55 saw rather than a jigsaw. Lanya's suggestion to cut the corners with a drill bit is good advise if you arn't used to the proceedure

Hi, Tom.

Actually, I really didn't mean "hole" saw. Rather, I meant to recommend to simply use a 1 inch or 3/4 inch spade bit. I'm always making stupid mistakes.

On your suggestion to use a track saw. I do not have a Festool. However, I do have both the corded and cordless Yellow Black and Decker (Dewalt).

Remember this is postform laminate, wherein the sink's lip will cover the cut, so accuracy is really not that important, as far as a perfectly straight line.

By the time that you get your tracks set up, with a jig saw, you'll probably have the entire sink cutout completed.

Cheap stuff, like postform laminate, doesn't need to be treated like fine finish wood.

Jig saw is more than sufficient and, most importantly, fast.

[frenchie]

Question: Why don't lawyers or doctors volunteer their time for DIY'ers projects for those that want to do their own lawsuits or operations?

Hey, I like that idea; Lawsuits for Humanity & Operations for Humanity

Dunno about doctors - but a lot of lawyers do "limited scope representation" (aka "unbundled legal services") to "pro se" (DIYer) litigants on a "pro bono" (volunteer) basis.


RE sink cutouts, my process is exactly the same as Lanya's.

[shag_fu]

Mbeezo-
If you seem to be consistently getting the same sinks, make a template and label it. If you get a different sink you should be able to test your template to see if it will work. If it works add that to you label. If you are planning on passing it off to a volunteer try to get one that that you've seen before. It will probably take a few tries to get the process volunteer proof. After a while you may have 3-4 templates that fit 95% of the sinks you will deal with.

[tjbnwi]

Only thing I have to add is, make sure the waste/cutout is supported as the cut is finished. Don't want it to drop free, it can fracture the tops laminate.

Tom