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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    769

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    morning jazzpur,

    In all seriousness, ( I can be serious at times) Your best approach is to hire the best pro you can find in the field. Preferably someone willing to answer a few questions and not mind you standing on the side lines watching. It's only tape and compound right? how hard can it be? That's what I thought until I started bringing in professional subs for my projects. I'll never forget the first time I got a 3 finish from my pro sub, It made my level 3 look like Stevie wonder applied it.

    You can spend years on your own trying something and doing it over and over and never get to that level of perfection you want unless you're learning that level from a professional.

    Good luck and some good advise above

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Kennett Square, Pa (chester county)
    Posts
    476

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    Drywall finishing is one of those "practice makes perfect" trades. If you want to do level 5 finishes your going to have to sling buckets of mud every day for a year before you have it mastered.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Davie Florida
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    Most everyone is right when they say that this is not a place to learn how to finish drywall but from the pictures you did not do too bad. The number one thing to remember in finishing is never put on more mud than you are willing to sand off. The first step in finishing is the most important step. When applying the tape make sure you pull the joint tight there should be no more mud left under the tape and no bubbles. This is where most beginners make the most mistakes. To fix what you have will not be easy because the more mud you put on the more the joints will show. Hire a professional or start sanding down the joints. With it painted this will not be easy.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
    Posts
    558

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    This post could have easily been from the majority of small contractors doing their own smooth wall finishes so I don't see the harm in answering a hard question from someone trying to do it right.

    I've done a lot of historic remodels and most of them have smoothwall finishes. I've done a lot myself and used one of the best finishers in our area and when he's done it's 95% of the way there - at least for myself and another anal remodeler - we simply spend a little extra time detailing, but where a client will covery my time I enjoy smooth wall finishing.

    What most people want and are willing to pay is really slightly short of a true level 5 - but it should still look flat and smooth but it doesn't have to be smooth enough to take a high gloss paint, but rather about halfway or 3/4 the way between a 4 and true 5.

    Before you try to roll this or that on, or skim here or there I think it makes the most sense to back up a little and look closely at what you've done. Using a 12" knife held perpendicular to the surface check your joints and I'll bet lunch you have more uneveness than you want - 1/16" gap under the knife is too much and 1/32" may be too much in some areas - nothing rolled on is going to fix that. In your case it would perhaps be better to use a 16" or 24" straight edge just to show what's high and low - it won't look flat if it's not very nearly flat. Look to areas that look good and check them with the knife to develop a feel for what works and what doesn't. Check directly on the crown of the joint as well as the sides - a high crown needs to be rounded over either with sanding if there's too much mud thickness or rounded over with additional mud and the sides tapered from this new wider crown or it will always show.

    In areas with harsher light such as where a window allows strong natural light to make every small detail pop out you'll have to make things even more flat, and in areas without direct light such as corners opposite harsh natural light sources it won't need as much attention - it's common sense but not always common practice.

    I have a 500 w halogen light on an adjustable stand so it can be placed up close the the ceiling to shine across the surface and I'd bet a second lunch that with that light alone it would show pronounced ridges along all your joints where you haven't tapered your mud out far enough or where it is tapered out it's not thick enough to actually be somewhat flat but is dished, or the crown of your joint comes to somewhat of a point.

    Most clients who want smooth walls have been very happy with a very mild texture from the thickest primer my paint supplier stocks called block primer. It's made to fill the holes in rough cement blocks prior to exterior paint, but rolled on a smooth wall very lightly with a short/medium nap roller and I mean very lightly and slowly it provides a fine dotted texture that helps hide small lumps and bumps. No other product or combination of products (drywall mud, primers, whatever) I've tried is able to produce this unique fine texture.

    To be honest I've never had to skim an entire ceiling - but I don't skimp on prep, getting things flat, using a super fine texture and using a thick professional kelly moore paint (non of that Behr or dime store crap). Good painting isn't getting the most coverage per gallon possible, but getting good film thickness in heavy evenly applied coats!

    Check your joint flatness and let us know what you find.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    769

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    I just want to know who's buy you those two lunches?


    Good post Don

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    LI,NY
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    Before I would Prime any more or Skim Coat, Make sure the seams are FLAT,if not you will have to treat them as butts.Even then they might not disapear.
    Good Luck

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    492

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    another way is the d-mix.
    google d-mix believer or d-mix 5 level finish.
    very forgiving and reworkable mix.
    good luck.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Easten South Dakota
    Posts
    3,664

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    I feel your frustration. Don from Idaho gave you good advice. Do what he said, then read his post over again, and keep repeating that until your ceiling is acceptable to you. The pain will make you a better drywaller, but I don't know what good that is to an electrical engineer. One of the humbling things in life is to realize you can't do everything.
    Last edited by Johnson; 06-14-2012 at 07:54 AM.
    "I would remind you that extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. And let me remind you also, that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
    --Barry Goldwater AD 1964

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Kent UK
    Posts
    3,152

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    A mate of mine says that he can obtain drywall with all 4 edges tapered. Currently, here, it is generally special order only and expensive.

    Otherwise leave it to the professionals.
    Limey Carpenter

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    65

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bainbridge View Post
    A mate of mine says that he can obtain drywall with all 4 edges tapered. Currently, here, it is generally special order only and expensive.

    Otherwise leave it to the professionals.
    I guess part of that is due to mainly plastering the whole lot rather than tape n joint over here apart from large or commercial projects. I understand it's used more down south.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    36

    Default Re: trouble hiding ceiling tape joints

    just going to throw this out there as i have run into it recently. you now have to be very careful of what you put on or you need to stop for a few weeks and let everything dry. not sure the number of coats of paint you have on there but i just did a job like this where the paint 3 coats were not covering and so we level fived the wall and primed and started putting paint back on but everything started bubbling off because the previous stuff was not 100% dry and still off gassing causing the paint to peel right off. we stopped and came back 2 1/2 weeks later and all is well.
    good luck

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