Flooring nailer

[aerieandy]

Need a new flooring nailer. Have a couple thousand feet of hardwood to install and since I have subbed it out for years now don't have a nailer. Looked at some older threads but just wanted to get some current opinions.
One question I have since I've never used the newfangled pneumatic ones is; do the manual versions get the floor tighter? Outside of this job I don't install it often but will if it's a manageable amount so using a manual is no big deal. That said I would spring for the air if it's a no-brainer. I've gathered that I probably want cleats not staples. Been looking at the Bostitch and powernail but can't really see much difference.

Thanks for any info.

andy

[tjbnwi]

I don't do a lot of floors, so I bought the Harbor Frieght stapler. It has held up well over about 2000 square feet.

It accepts the Bostitch staples.

Tom

[aerieandy]

Is that manual or air? Never bought from them before, but there's always a first ...

[tjbnwi]

I'm sorry, forgot to mention it is air assisted. It will set a board as tight as they will ever need be. The widest plank I have installed with it is 4".

The cost of the unit was less than a 2 day rental.

Tom

[philthegreek]

I have a portanailer and the HF unit. Portanailer uses "T" cleats and the HF unit uses up to 2" 15 ga staples. The newer HFunits use all three types. Although I don't do floors regularly, I have done several thousand SF and find no difference in holding power. I originally thought the cleats would hold better, but the staples are coated and this coating heats up and helps glue the staples. Remember that the harder you hit, the tighter the set. I know you did not ask about this, but just wanted to add my experience. I mark the joists and set my initial fasteners into the joists, then infill between. This helps to lock the floor together and reduces the chance of squeaks. Since I do mostly remodels, I encounter 5/8" subfloor most often and the staples or cleats, at 2", poke 3/8" through the subfloor. So why not get more holding power by having them in the joists.
Before I laid my first oak floor, an old timer told me to make sure that the flooring acclimates at least 1 1/2 weeks before being laid. I always go 2 weeks and have not had any gaps opening up. That floor was 8 yrs ago and is still tight today. Sorry for the ramble.

Phil

[Tom Bainbridge]

I have a manual 45R powernailer, 'cos I don't do floors very often

I hired a pneumatic nailer for one job, not impressed.

Quick yes, tight joints (in comparison to the 45R) no, no and no

[aerieandy]

Not a ramble Phil, Thanks for the input. Once upon a time I did a fair bit of hardwood and it was all with a manual nailer and getting things tight was never a problem. Even the worst boards closed up to a glue quality joint with a few slams of the nailer. I was wondering if the pneumatic units had a harder time slamming stuff home because it's a different kind of force driving the cleat. In my mind very similar to the difference in getting framing super tight with a hammer as opposed to a framing gun. As for acclimating, material has been sitting on site "forever" waiting for me to install it. I think the acclimation period is even more important after it's installed but before filling and sanding, for that I'll give it a good long stretch. Are the units you have ratcheting and do you have a preference?

Thanks

Andy

[Mark G]

If you're not far from Auburn you can come borrow my Bostitch. The pounding with the rubber mallet tightens the joint and triggers the gun.

[aerieandy]

Tom, that was my suspicion. I hate seeing floor guys save time by using more filler, same as caulk in my book.

[aerieandy]

Mark, Generous offer and thanks but with fuel prices I fear I would burn up any savings getting there and back. Think Auburn is 3-3 1/2 hours from the bay.

Andy

[dgbldr]

I don't know about this "tight" stuff. If I'm installing in the wet season, yes. If I'm installing in the dry season, I don't want them real tight.

[David Meiland]

I have a Bostitch pneumatic nailer, it shoots barbed cleats. It's built like a tank. You slide it along the tongue, slam the plunger with the mallet, the gap tightens up perfectly, the gun goes off with a very macho sound (sorta like an explosion). After a little practice you can fly with it and expend almost no effort. Apparently the Powernail gun is very similar, maybe even a bit better. I can't imagine using a non-air flooring gun after using this thing.

If you don't want it tight, it can be tricky. We don't have real wet-dry seasonal swings, so I don't have that issue.

Mine came from eBay, new. Keep an eye out for deals there.

[tjbnwi]

I have yet to have a plank that the pneumatic gun would not tighten up. More in the technique than the tool. You can get closer to the wall with the manual unit, only a plank or two.

Tom

[David Meiland]

Getting close to the wall is the sore spot with these things. They oughta make an offset model.

[joseph]

do not know you ,but you said you laid floors with a manual one a long time ago . well if you were young then and your older wiser and swing a hammer less now then get an air asist .They both use a mallet to set the boards .one is way easier .you miss a stroke one the manual one you end up with a proud nail to deal with . the air one will still sink the nail . the manual one really uses an arm ,they are a lot of work .the air assist will still work you over ,still alot of work , but so much easier . They both tighten up the joints .