Laminate basement floor

[Bob scott]

This is a basement job that had a water heater let go.

I originally thought of using tile but the insurance adjuster is specking laminate and the floor is so out of plane that I'm not sure I could ever get tiles to work.

I'd like to get some opinions on using a laminate floor in a basement. I've read a couple of threads and the one that comes to mind was started by Shawn Prentice and had some good reviews from Tom (tjbnwi).

I guess my main questions would be:

How does the dricore stuff hold up over time?
How much trouble is it to install on a rough slab that is no way near flat? Do I shim it or will I need to level the slab?
What brand laminate do you guys like for basements? I seem to remember some look like chip board in the middle. Are there some that are made for the higher humidity of a basement? Maybe a waterproof core?

Thanks in advance.

Bob Scott

[tjbnwi]

Bob,

One I did, needed very little in the way shimming. The other we ended up placing SLC. The rest it was a matter of swimming where need be.

I know that was not much help, just that I have had them go both ways.

Ive been back to all of the jobs I have used Dri-Core on, No issues at all. One just had a water heater let go. I believe the Dri-Core saved the finished floor. I vacuumed the concrete utility closet floor the best I could. The owner vacuumed water that ran out from under the Dri-Core over the next few days, then I placed a floor drying fan at the edge and let it run a few days. Its been about 6 months, no oder, and the product looks fine at the edges. I have read where water can get to the OSB at the cuts. It did not seem to be an issue on this one.

Tom

[slimpickens]

Hey Tom --

Did you treat the concrete before you used SLC on your out-of-plane floor? I'm going to have this very issue on my next job. I've used SLC before, but not to the extent that this basement's gonna call for. Did the SLC take well to the concrete substrate? Or did you have to treat it some way ("scuffing it up")?

[tjbnwi]

I used the latex primer. If you have a lot to do, look into having it done by a company that pumps it in.

Tom

[Bob scott]

Tom,

Thanks for the reply.

From what you've said, the slab needs to be close to flat before starting? Do you know what the minimum thickness is for the SLC? I guess I need to know what SLC stands for. I'm not sure if that's self leveling compound or self leveling concrete.

Also, do you have any recomendations for the flooring (brand, line?)

I'd look around on the web or at a flooring store but to be honest I don't think that most sales people know what they're talking about. I'd rather start with a recomendation from someone here.

Anyone else have anything to add here? Tom can't be the only one to use dricore and laminate in a basement.


Here's a story for you.
Yesterday I went to a lunch/trade show at one of the local suppliers. Just a small show, maybe 20 or so vendors. I see that Azek has some new plastic pavers (actually recycled tires). So I ask the rep about them. He said they can be used for anything including walks and driveways. I ask what kind of base you need for a driveway? six inch? He says I don't know, whatever you would normally use. I said well how do you cut them? He says easy, you can use a tablesaw, chop saw, jigsaw. I ask what kind of blade, he says I don't know.
Basically he's telling me how great these things are and he clearly has never built anything with them. Where do they get these guys?

Next I go and talk to a guy selling those synthetic slate shingles. They looked cool. I ask about fading and such. Of course he tells me it won't be a problem. Then I ask how do you get some out to work on the roof because you cant just lift up the tab like an asphault roof. He says that I will never have to do that. They never leak or break. Well what if someone wants to add a skylight I ask. He said something like "if they wanted one they should have added it before the roof was done" or something like that.
I said ok, now how about when a stack boot leaks and nees to be replaced? Anyways, this guy was nice and all but I don't think he ever did any real roofing. How could a rep not know how to service his own product!

Bob

[tjbnwi]

Self leveling compound. Make sure the one you choose can be used below grade. I use Mapie or Custom, they can feather 1/16-1". Like I said, if it is real bad get a price on having it pumped in. If there is a hydronic floor heat installer in your area, they should be able to accomplish it.

These are Dri-Cores detailed instructions. The floor does not have to be level, but it should be on plane and relatively flat;

http://www.dricore.com/en/dinstal.aspx

You need to consider the stairs also, you will change the rise at the first tread. This is not an issue when I'm doing a basement build out, I just figure it in.

The best laminate I have used to date, is Pergo. For me, it has always been a good product to work with. The cheep ones have been a pain in comparison, both for finish and installation. Cutting any of them destroys blades.

I also build my walls on the Dri-Core floor, you just have to make sure the nails do not go through the backing.

Tom

[e hilton]

Next I go and talk to a guy selling those synthetic slate shingles. They looked cool. I ask about fading and such.

I built a small building in Colonial Williamsburg, we had two choice for the roof: real slate or wood shingles. (Everything else on the outside had to be "real" too, like copper gutters, true divided lite 12/6 windows with individual insulated panes, etc). We asked to use fake slate shingles and were denied. They agreed that they looked identical to the real stone out of the box, but after 2-3 years they did not take on the patina like real stone.