Best Primer for Poplar

[topcoatfinishes]

I get asked alot about prep, prime and finish on raw poplar in remodeling and new construction scenarios. I have found over the past 12 months an exceptional latex primer that works very well in both spray and brush applications, with particular emphasis on poplar because it is so prevalent (at least in my area, as well as those who have asked me about it).

Thought I would pass this info on for those who work with poplar and finish. Even if you are a builder who doesnt paint, if you have been unhappy with the finished look on poplar that your paint contractors are getting, the primer is the key part of the system that causes issues with grain broadcast, uneven sheen in topcoats, improper hide of nail filler, etc.

We have done a few projects in a row with a system including this primer and a nice corresponding satin-ish finish and we continue to be extremely impressed. The end result is only as good as the primer in most cases. And in alot of cases, painters/finishers opt for the cheapest primer possible because we use alot of it, and after all, its hidden under paint, right?

You may hear from painters that poplar is just difficult to work with on the finish side, but that is hardly justification for using cheap primer. We do poplar on every single job, and as voc regs make it more difficult to justify the use of oils, other alternatives have to be up to the task. This one even meets leed criteria.

This is the same primer that we have used in alot of the youtube spraying videos that I have shared showing footage of cabinetry in process in the shop.

In the interest of dis-spelling misinformation on latex primers for poplar:

http://topcoatreview.com/2011/07/05/...mer-on-poplar/

For those who are interested in exploring the topic further, I'd be happy to show progress footage of the project depicted in the above link. It is a multi million dollar lakeside home with a tasteful trim package.

[Lavrans]

Definitely do, Scott.

[Lettusbee67]

I appreciate this kind of information. I have nowhere near the finishing expertise that most in this forum have, but I have always used the zinsser 1-2-3 primer, usually the water based. And haven't had the problems with poplar that you mentioned above.

Is the SW product that much better?

[topcoatfinishes]

I appreciate this kind of information. I have nowhere near the finishing expertise that most in this forum have, but I have always used the zinsser 1-2-3 primer, usually the water based. And haven't had the problems with poplar that you mentioned above.

Is the SW product that much better?

Zinsser is good, especially for occasional use. Its definitely acceptable. I guess I would say it is the difference between a Master Mechanic circ saw and a sweet Milwaukee. Depends what you are cutting, how much you are going to use it, how much you want to spend, how accurate you demand your cuts to be, how into the precision of the components of the tool.

Primer is kind of that way. For me, oil is the best primer. Period. Love it. Its not always practical, and it may not always be an option in the future, and many jobs cant sustain the increased cost of us using it. So, in the past few years, I started on smaller jobs experimenting with different technologies. We found one that we could make work. We could get it to do what it needed to do, and do it on a pretty good scale. It wasnt anywhere near as good as oil, but I assumed it to be the bar for acrylic.

That was a faulty assumption on my part. I didnt resume experimenting until supply became limited of primer #1. I tried the SW primer, hoping it would at least match what we had been using, and it blew it away. On the first job, I thought it might be a fluke. So we used the crap out of it in the shop, and I thought maybe it just sprayed well. A couple of more field jobs and its now number one and going out to the highest profile projects.

I guess what I learn in this process everytime, regardless of tool or product, is that its the journey and not the destination. I am open to the possibility that in a month, something will come along that will exceed this primer. I have a couple of ideas on what they may even be, I just havent spent time with them yet.

But for now, this is the best, and the unit of measure is how it compares to oil primer. This is much closer than most latex primers can get in terms of hide, sanding to powder and buttery paint over me feel. For now.

[Joe Adams]

Scott,

Just Curious - If you're priming your Poplar with SW latex instead of oil what product are you painting the trim with?

Thanks!

[topcoatfinishes]

Scott,

Just Curious - If you're priming your Poplar with SW latex instead of oil what product are you painting the trim with?

Thanks!

Joe

We have been using Cashmere with this primer, and its a great system. We also have used alot of waterborne satin impervo from Ben Moore over the years, good stuff too.

[Allan Edwards]

All of our interior trim is poplar, see 8" base attached. I like and use oil based primer.

[Lavrans]

Scott- what do you think about Shellac based primers?

[topcoatfinishes]

I like them on certain small scale apps that need a super fast dryer. But not on a whole trim package. Too brittle, inflexible and not moisture resistant enough. That said, you can get a sweet finish over them.

[Tom Bainbridge]

scott

just checking on english/american language differences

are latex paint and acrylic paint the same thing or are they entirely different products

[Lavrans]

Tom- yes and no. Acrylics can be water soluble or spirit soluble- there are latex acrylics.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_paint

[clydewater]

Hi
Does anyone make a latex or oil sanding / sealing primer similar to what I used to use for painting cars by Dupont. It was super easy to sand, both wet and dry and gave a super slick finish for the top coats. I am wondering if there is anything like that for wood too?

[topcoatfinishes]

Zinsser Bullseye sanding sealer.

[Anthony B]

Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Alkyd Enamel underbody. Apply with a mohair roller or good quality brush. It will take some time to dry but is excellent stuff.

[topcoatfinishes]

Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Alkyd Enamel underbody. Apply with a mohair roller or good quality brush. It will take some time to dry but is excellent stuff.

Fresh Start Underbody is excellent stuff. We have used it alot. There are times when its just not practical because of dry times. On a new construction schedule, we need at times to have alot of installed trim primed or spot primed, sanded, caulked and a coat of paint applied - all in the same day. When we have the ability to get a fast dry latex that will sand out similar to oil, and allow the next several steps to happen that day, we have to take that alot of the time, there is just no reason not to. Dont get me wrong, I am an oil snob and always will be, but there will come a day sooner than later where oil will be harder to get, and become more affected by voc regs. I want to be completely ready when that day comes.

Just to be clear, no manufacturers are putting money into oil products. They wont be able to reduce their vocs, so they will have certain loop holes that will allow some of the oil products to stay in production (for instance, under different labels and in quarts only - who wants that?) and they have put all of their R&D $ into waterborne, latex and acrylic technologies, as they should. As the users of these products (I have been using oil for over 25 years), its just not good for us. There are certain brands that if I am in the room when a can gets popped, I will get a whack headache about 8 hours later. Not good.