Typar or typek?

[Albion]

Studying the benefits or bragging of each I am left wondering -one is better at preventing water to enter the building and the other better at letting vapor moisture exit. But little about actual usage outcomes. Then i reviewed this web page mentioning actual building results.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/17741280/H...Perm-Tech-Talk

[Ted S.]

Definately Typek.

[Martin Holladay]

Ted,
I prefer Tyvar.

[Dutchman]

You're both wrong, Asfalt Pelt is the way to go.

[dgbldr]

Personally I don't like to let vapor moisture exit.

And Dutch, you Miss Pelt your Ass Falt.

[Overbuilders]

Personally I don't like to let vapor moisture exit.

And Dutch, you Miss Pelt your Ass Falt.

I thought he Miss Felt his Ass Pat.

[Ted S.]

So, I guess it's my fault the thread fell apart. I apologize.

Going back some time I recall preferring Typar, it was stronger, more resistant to UVs and surfactants, etc. That was a while ago and things have changed, I am a bit rusty on the whole Typar vs Tyvek topic which has been debated for at least one generation now. In wood frame commercial work, Tyvek rules the roost around here. Why? I don't know, someone once said Tyvek was DuPont's marketing victory...

I am sure someone has a good thread or info for this guy? I myself am an old Felt guy. Not sure how long that's going to remain that way with IECC 2012 - 3 ACH50. Ouch.

[worthy]

Nothing you said. I think it's just fatigue on this issue. Around here, Typar wins hands down. When given the choice, I avoid them both, preferring XPS or #30 felt, following Lstiburek's early recommendations in RR-909 where he says:

"Moisture moves from warm to cold (due to a thermal gradient) as well as from more to less (due to a concentration gradient). A vapor permeable housewrap such as Tyvek, Typar or #15 felt is not recommended behind a brick veneer for this reason. A more robust felt paper such as a #30 felt or a semi-permeable extruded foam such as the Dow blueboard or the Owens-Corning pinkboard is desirable."

So it turns out that the masons who first encountered this product on my buildings were right. They insisted on using the felt over the housewrap and even over the shiplapped XPS.

[ThingOfBeauty]

Tried Typar--ladders made holes in it.
Tyvek at least holds up while you're building.
We use felt some, blueboard some, and more than one layer a lot.

[Flashman]

Tyvek: flash spun polyolefin, heat treated.

Typar: woven polyolefin backed with film.

Both have similiar air and water holdout specs, but very different perm ratings. Depending on where you are, looks like Oregon (me too) I would suggest a high perm WRB as we have a mild climate with both heating and cooling seasons. The goal is a forgiving wall assembly and not to allow the water to condensate anywhere. That said, flashing and bulk water holdout can be obtained with both in use, then you also need to take care of air sealing. I like Tyvek's "Drainwrap" which is also code in our state per the mid-cycle ammendment to R703.1 requiring rain screens or a "drainage enhanced WRB."

Here's the company Kool-aid

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weather...ech%20Talk.pdf

http://www.typar.com/pdfs/Typar_vs_Tyvek.pdf

[Albion]

Thanks Mr Flashman. This project home is in NE i winter in OR.
I just discovered " Home Slicker® Plus Typar®" but do not know how much more it costs verses Drainwrap... . It seems like a great product for either states climate. However the 50 year warranty is valid, as i read it , only to original homeowner. But advantage over a rain-screen wall is the 15% greater venting then using 1by3 strapping.... Sol i'm still cogitating..