Cutting Metal Siding

[MDavis0735]

I’m doing a siding installation in Breckenridge, Colorado. Most of the project is Cedar, but a few locations call for metal siding. I’m trying to find out what the best cutting tools for metal siding are. I’ve been told that for cuts parallel to the ribs I should use either a nibbler or electric shear. For cuts across the ribs I need a metal cutting circular saw.

Can anyone tell me which works the best; nibblers or shears? And which brand and model of nibbler or shear would you recommend?

How about metal cutting circular saws? Any recommendations? Brand and model?
I know I could putz my way through and figure this all out for myself; but why reinvent the wheel? Someone out there has the information I need, and can save me a few dollars and a lot of aggravation by sharing their experience.

Thank you for your help.
Michael Davis
Framing Square Const., Conifer, Colorado

[Happy Home]

I'm not an everyday sider but for an addition or two, repairs I've used a circ saw with a plywood blade installed backwards. Works for me. Cut depth - just enough through the siding into a plywood base / table. Of course mask tape on the saw if cutting on the finished side but try to cut on the unfinished side. You can clamp a straightedge even for ribbed material, cross or rip.

[David Meiland]

We cut metal roofing with a carbide-tooth metal-cutting blade in a skilsaw. Also use a Makita cordless angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel for detail cuts, plunges, etc., and sometimes a Milwaukee electric shear.

Whatever you use, keep the metal cutting operation FAR away from the cedar, and down-wind too, unless you want an un-fixable problem with black stains on the wood.

[clydewater]

If you are cutting Galvalum you should not use a circular saw, but either snips or a nibler. The reason is that you want to pinch the thin layers of the aluminum treatment together to seal the end. I was skeptical about this, but when I went to MetalCon a few years back and saw what happens when you do not do this, I became a believer.

Hope this helps
Rich

[MDavis0735]

I’m doing a siding installation in Breckenridge, Colorado. Most of the project is Cedar, but a few locations call for metal siding. I’m trying to find out what the best cutting tools for metal siding are. I’ve been told that for cuts parallel to the ribs I should use either a nibbler or electric shear. For cuts across the ribs I need a metal cutting circular saw.

Can anyone tell me which works the best; nibblers or shears? And which brand and model of nibbler or shear would you recommend?

How about metal cutting circular saws? Any recommendations? Brand and model?
I know I could putz my way through and figure this all out for myself; but why reinvent the wheel? Someone out there has the information I need, and can save me a few dollars and a lot of aggravation by sharing their experience.

Thank you for your help.
Michael Davis
Framing Square Const., Conifer, Colorado

Thanks everyone. That was useful information.

[Randy Bush]

I do steel siding and roof all the time for the past 15 years. I A circular saw is the wrong thing to use in cutting any steel siding. A lot of siding is void of warranty if cut with a circular saw. The reason being a saw tears the edge when cutting there by allowing it to rust. compared to using snips , electric snips or a profile shear which seals the edge as it is cut. I also have a rolling cut of tool for my metal brake when cutting steel trim coil.

[David Meiland]

How do you cross-cut snaplock roofing cleanly with snips? And, what is a profile shear?

[Randy Bush]

To be honest David as of yet I have not done any snap lock, or standing seam, price seems to be a problem to a lot of people, but I will ask my friend that makes all of my roofing how they do it. Profile cutter is shaped like the panel you are cutting there by not mashing the panel. I have one for 8' , double 4 and double 5 steel lap siding. my friend has one for the 3' Propanel like Meta Sales out of Spokane has if you know of them, 3/4 high rib, straight cut and also a angle cut one.

[David Meiland]

Snaplock roofing is prevalent here, and we have to crosscut panels in some cases, especially at valleys. We can cut for width using the electric scissors, and most flashings and trim pieces are cut with hand snips.

[forgedin78]

we have a profile shear, for what most people call "barn siding" 3' wide 3/4" ribs(fabral grandrib 3). But before that we cut everything with snips, electric shear, and nibblers. Elec shears for ripping parallel to the rib and nibblers for crossing the rib. It takes some getting used to but with sharp nibblers you can climb up and over the ribs very fast and accurately. Most cuts go inside of a j-channel so its not critical. If the cut shows, stay an 1/8 from the line and trim with hand snips. Oh and another thing, this we discovered recently, In addition to the red, green, and three jawed yellow snips, get a pair of red and green upright snips, where the handle is pointing up while you cut along. This makes it sooo much easier in certain tight spots.

[ddolman]

We install what you have been calling barn siding all the time. Our crew probably installs over 200,000 sq ft a year, and we pretty much only use snips and knives. When doing multiple straight cross cuts we use a profile shear, but the most common tool for crosscuts or angled valley and gable cuts is the simple aviation tin snip. It is just as fast as setting up and using a saw or nibbler and it is quite, does not require power, and can be carried in a pouch with you.
For lengthwise cuts, a knife works great. Just score the cut line with the knife and then snap the metal like it is drywall. Works very well and again it is portable and quiet. Use a sharp blade and firm pressure. The only really hard cuts are the long tapered cuts, but they usually only happen if something is out of square or installed wrong.