Blocking between trusses

[Larry Scott]

Presently we mark the top plates for the roof truss placement and nail trusses to top plate at the spacing marks. After all the trusses are up we go back and put in the bird blocks. My question -- Is there any reason that the blocks should not be put in as the trusses are raised into position, with the blocks doing the spacing?

Thanks,

Larry

[Riversong]

As long as you cut and nail the blocks accurately so you don't gain on your on-center truss spacing. I would still layout the plates to make sure you stay on pattern.

[Jeremy B]

We just finished framing a simple garage. We laid out for trusses on the double top plate and then pre-installed every other block so that we had instant stabilization for each truss where it sat on each exterior wall. After the trusses were set and braced, we finished installing the rest of the blocks.

[ubenhad4]

We often do this. Just make sure your blocks are cut right and that you get them super tight. Should stay on layput if your getting them TIGHT. We also do pull a layout to make sure we maintain layout.

[KentWhitten]

No, I wouldn't do that. It doesn't take any time at all to lay out a top plate. There is no production gain to benefit from not putting layout on the top plates.

[Lavrans]

Presently we mark the top plates for the roof truss placement and nail trusses to top plate at the spacing marks. After all the trusses are up we go back and put in the bird blocks. My question -- Is there any reason that the blocks should not be put in as the trusses are raised into position, with the blocks doing the spacing?

Thanks,

Larry

I mark the top plate and nail the trusses to that line. I've generally got enough time to tack in at least every other block as we're setting- especially if they are large enough to be set with a crane.

I would have a hard time trusting blocking to set the spacing without something to make sure I wasn't going off layout. But- I've got no problem installing the blocks while setting trusses. If you've got time, it's always good to minimize trips back.

Not really sure what else could be said.

[sbebuilders]

Checking truss layout. To see how much we were gainging with the 3x ridge blocks.

Block as you stand the Truss

After standing over 100,000 trusses, I say block as you stand the truss.

Sim

[Lavrans]

Sim- that's you with a belt on. I thought you tried to avoid that these days! ;-)

I'll admit- I haven't set many truss roofs. First one was a first for everyone & GC trusted the blocks and didn't check spacing. I checked at about 15' and we were off by 3/4". Long, so we could still adjust and get nailing. Second didn't set blocks, just tacked a board across the ridge and nailed the trusses to layout. Way too much time going back.

Last time we set bird blocks as we went, with layout lines to gauge layout. When blocks pushed the trusses off layout, I would leave it out and start setting blocks again at the next truss. I was able to knock blocks back in later without trimming them, but only had to leave out 4 blocks in 50'.

I thought that worked pretty well. We were way up in the hills and the crane was costing us big enough money (extra for distance, altitude, access) that we didn't set upper blocking, just tacked everything in place and went back after the crane left.

I like cutting roofs, but it's also pretty cool to put up a 30' x 50' roof in 3 hours with 2 people and a crane.

[Richard Birch]

Checking truss layout. To see how much we were gainging with the 3x ridge blocks.

Block as you stand the Truss

After standing over 100,000 trusses, I say block as you stand the truss.

Sim

I agree, Block and Roll. I even pin the heels on layout prior to lifting (like with exterior walls off a deck) and it seems to make the lift/roll easier by keeping it steady and allows you to push and lift simultaneously. It’s a real back saver on those heavy dudes.

[m beezo]

First question from a guy who has not done a roof for probably 4 years. I do not see how you can get that far off layout if you are cutting blocks and they are cut accurately. I mean 14 1/2 blocks if cut accurately should not throw you off that much it would seem to me.

I guess the same could be said about those places where a rafter tie is required. I doubt that most of you would install those first before standing the truss. Kind of the same spacing idea and saving you going back for another trip around the house.

[m beezo]

In regards to cutting blocks and getting your lumber packages. Do any of you guys get a pallet of precut blocks? I worked on a 600 unit apartment building and with each load of lumber there would be a pallet of precut blocks sent to us. We build a bunch of stuff and would get the building dried in. First rain day you had the option of not working or spending the day installing all the fire blocking and stuff. After the first 10 units you were sick of fireblocking but you had it down as to what went where.

[ubenhad4]

I wouldnt go 14 1/2 go 14 7/16 max or youll get off layout quick.

[greentree]

Are you putting in blocks in lieu of full length bracing on top of the web chords?

[ddolman]

There is almost always a gangnail plate on each side of a truss at that location, so you can not cut 14 1/2. Even 14 7/16 will be too tight. The gang nails can make the truss thickness unreliable.

[ubenhad4]

ive never seen a truss where the gang nails or gussets interfere with bird blocks. Bird blocks are out past the gang nails by at least a few inches even when there put plumb. if gang plates are an issue get ready for a head ache.