Recs for sun tunnel / solatube type skylights?

**David Meiland** · 07-25-2009, 03:55 PM

Just looked at a job where someone wants 1-2 of these installed. Ceiling is flat, roof is 12:12 and only a few feet from the ceiling. I know Velux makes them along with Solatube and probably others, but have never installed one.

**Ed the Roofer** · 07-25-2009, 09:17 PM

It will be the easiest installation of a product ever, assuming that the shingles are in decent enough flexible shape to remove and replace.

I also recommend that you strip in the left and right and top sides of the flashings that are mounted on the roof deck with Ice and Water Shield.

Probably the Flexible Tubing one with the flexible tubing will be needed, since it sounds like you have a very short distance to transcend to get to the ceiling.

Ed

**David Meiland** · 07-25-2009, 09:49 PM

The roof is pressure-treated cedar shake, and the penetrations would be very close to the ridge, probably 2-3 courses down. I've never had much luck removing cedar intact. It's 11:12 also, so getting up there is a pain. He wants the cedar ridge cap removed from the entire house and a copper cap installed.

**Mike S.** · 07-25-2009, 10:24 PM

I've installed about six of the Solatube brand. Easy to install & never had a callback. FWIW, two of the customers are pretty anal about researching products and both of them came to the conclusion that Solatube was the best.

Mike

**James Eggert** · 07-26-2009, 12:58 PM

I have used SunPipe and Velux.

I would never buy a flex style one again. They lose too much light as compared to the hardpipe units.

Some units now have lights within them, and some have in-pipe dimming capabilities; they have come a long way!

I have a SunPipe in my kitchen, installed in 97; only had to replace the foam seal at the top once, and that was because they sent me a replacement because they didn't think the original would last!

**BThomas** · 07-26-2009, 05:50 PM

David
If you are changing out the ridge cap anyway. Take it off than take a long metal cutting sawzall blade and back cut the cedar shake nails from the top down to where you need. You should be able to save them for reuse.
The last tunnel I installed had the sleeve that could (and needed to be) trimmed to the correct length. Very easy to install.
Up by you - you might need to wrap the sleeve with an insulating wrap.
BillT

**Ed the Roofer** · 07-26-2009, 06:29 PM

Since you are removing the cedar shakes from the top down, from the ridge cap pieces, you will have direct access to the nails holding down the old cedar and probably will not need the sawzall or even a slate nail ripper bar, so just tear them off in a V-shape with the bottom of the V being right below the flashings from the skylight flashings.

Ed

**David Meiland** · 07-26-2009, 06:55 PM

I was wondering about whether the tube would need an insulating wrap. The space between roof and ceiling is not accessible unless I open it up from the inside. Ideally I'd cut one hole in the ceiling and another in the roof, rather than removing a larger area of ceiling, but if I needed to wrap the pipe that would be the only way.

How would you guys set up to work on a roof like this. The roof plane is about 16 feet from eave to ridge. The holes would be right below the ridge, as I mentioned. The roof shape is "sprung", meaning the rafter tails curve up at the bottom. Usually I have set up a scaffold on the ground, up to the eave, then laid a ladder on the roof with the feet attached to the scaffolding. That allows for walking up the ladder and perching at the work area. With the sprung roof I would not be able to lay the ladder flat. I am not excited about trying to climb this guy's roof and muck up the pristine shingles.

Worse yet, he wants the entire ridge cap removed and replaced with copper. That would mean working along the entire length of the ridge. I was wondering if the fastest and safest would be a boom truck and a bosun's chair. It's 11: 12 pitch, so there's no walking around up there.

**Johnson** · 07-26-2009, 08:49 PM

Originally Posted by David Meiland

I was wondering about whether the tube would need an insulating wrap. The space between roof and ceiling is not accessible unless I open it up from the inside. Ideally I'd cut one hole in the ceiling and another in the roof, rather than removing a larger area of ceiling, but if I needed to wrap the pipe that would be the only way.

How would you guys set up to work on a roof like this. The roof plane is about 16 feet from eave to ridge. The holes would be right below the ridge, as I mentioned. The roof shape is "sprung", meaning the rafter tails curve up at the bottom. Usually I have set up a scaffold on the ground, up to the eave, then laid a ladder on the roof with the feet attached to the scaffolding. That allows for walking up the ladder and perching at the work area. With the sprung roof I would not be able to lay the ladder flat. I am not excited about trying to climb this guy's roof and muck up the pristine shingles.

Worse yet, he wants the entire ridge cap removed and replaced with copper. That would mean working along the entire length of the ridge. I was wondering if the fastest and safest would be a boom truck and a bosun's chair. It's 11: 12 pitch, so there's no walking around up there.

Sounds like you will need one of those Genie or JLG man lifts. Give him the news it's going to take some bucks.

**David Meiland** · 07-26-2009, 08:54 PM

Anything with a basket and you're going to be working laying on your stomach. Ugh. I was wondering if I could lash a plank to a forklift boom and lay it on the roof below and parallel to the ridge. Just enough to put my boots on....

**Kgphoto** · 07-26-2009, 09:12 PM

I tied my daughter to a rope and lowered her down with a nail gun on my Dad's barn roof. We just stood opposite the ridge and belayed her. I don't recommend this.

I think you should study this access real carefully, cause no money is worth injury or death.

I double teathered my daughter with a climbing and fall arrest harness.

**Johnson** · 07-26-2009, 10:01 PM

Originally Posted by David Meiland

Anything with a basket and you're going to be working laying on your stomach. Ugh. I was wondering if I could lash a plank to a forklift boom and lay it on the roof below and parallel to the ridge. Just enough to put my boots on....

Could work. Maybe put some cushion on the plank, an old rug or carpet to be gentle on the roof. Then let the basket rest on the roof to prevent the bouncing around. Whatever makes you feel safe I guess. I've had to put ridge on a steel roof, but I just did it the hard way by torturing my body laying in the basket with half my body outside the basket to secure the cap.

I was wondering though, how much light do these tubes bring into the house? Is it just like a beam of light the size of the tube, or does it spread throughout the room?

**Johnson** · 07-26-2009, 10:03 PM

Originally Posted by Kgphoto

I tied my daughter to a rope and lowered her down with a nail gun on my Dad's barn roof. We just stood opposite the ridge and belayed her. I don't recommend this.

I think you should study this access real carefully, cause no money is worth injury or death.

I double teathered my daughter with a climbing and fall arrest harness.

How old was your daughter? Just wondering.

**dgbldr** · 07-27-2009, 12:51 AM

Forklift boom. Make whatever simple platform will suit the job. The time you save will pay for the boom, to say nothing of your safety. Don't use your daughter. Ex-wife would work much better.

**Dancing Dan** · 07-27-2009, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by Johnson

I was wondering though, how much light do these tubes bring into the house? Is it just like a beam of light the size of the tube, or does it spread throughout the room?

The amount of light is pretty impressive. We did one job right in town where the homeowner says night-time light pollution is enough to illuminate the small bathroom. And during the day it'll definitely have people looking for a light switch.

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