How to run beading bit on site built arch casing?

[BGeezus]

Considering getting this beading bit to match the profile in the illustration:

http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/...ing-54161.html

If I fabricate a flat arch casing to fit a particular opening,how do you suggest routing this bead...as in how do I jig and set it up?

[tjbnwi]

I've done it on flat straights, never on an arch.

I am assuming you want this detail on the face of the arch not the edge?

Can you apply the detail as part of the fabrication? Pin it on as a separate piece?

If not you will need to fabricate a sub base that matches the arch so the edges of the base do not hold the bit off of the face horizontally. You may also need a bit extension to reach. A bracket to hold the router 90 degrees to the casing.

Any variation in the profile will be pronounced.

Could you use these and make and inboard and outboard pass?

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/49700.html

At least the router will be vertical. You will need a bearing, stop collar and template.

Tj

[Charliehamr]

There is no reason to go through gymnastics. Form the beading on a seperate piece, and bend it around the arch. I often do this with a 1/8" R bead, and it works splendidly, down to around a 36" radius or so. Any tighter than that, and you will have to use a curved laminated piece, preferably run through a shaper with a feeder, and a jig (standing vertically) although I suppose you could do it with a router table, fence, and jig. Glue and plenty of clamps will do the trick.

[Robzilla]

I have done what Charliehamr suggested many times as well. I make my own 1/4 x 3/4 beaded moulding often to create 'beaded face-frames' in the field. I use the exact bit you linked to.

To 'bend' it to a radius I would suggest solid poplar. Finger joint will bend, but the joints let go under pressure after a week or so.

If it is a tighter radius and the poplar won't bend smoothly for you, try making the beaded moulding out of rubber 'flex 1x'. You will have to tack it to wood backing to shape and rip it, but that would work just fine as well.

This is one company that makes this product.
http://www.flextrim.com/
1x4: http://www.flexmolding.com/itempric....tem1=24112-S4S

Some vendor in you area must distribute this or a similar product.

[philthegreek]

Hey Geez,
Have you thought of using a 1/4 shaft bit in a trim router? Making a screw on base adapter for the given radius and just adjusting the depth. ?Just a thought:)

phil

[archmolding]

Maybe depending on how steep of an arch you make...you may be able to use an "offset router base" and it could follow the arch upright on edge. Of course you would have to be extra carefull...and clamp it very well...perhaps that could work?

[tod evans]

here`s the answer;
http://www.woodline.com/p-1534-point...-14-shank.aspx
gotta make a dedicated fence for the radius.

[Housewright]

You can use the same beading bit you used for the straight casing, but will need to attach a sub-base to your router at 90 degerees, like a wide fence. The fence will then ride against the face of the curved casing.

If the radius is tight the regular base on your router may interfere. If that is the case, use a router with a removable motor and make a 90 degree fence that is parallel to your router shaft. You can then attach a guide to that fence that is the same radius as the inside of your casing. A small light router is best. Make it long enough that you can cut off any starting/finishing bobbles.

I have a friend that does it carefully with a laminate trimmer fitted with a ball-bearing beading bit and a small fence, works good too, if your bit has a 1/4 inch shank.

[markhoni]

here`s the answer;
http://www.woodline.com/p-1534-point...-14-shank.aspx
gotta make a dedicated fence for the radius.

I like your solution Tod. Just make a curved edge to attach to a router table for a fence, or put the curved edge on a router fence. Then do the outside edge of the casing with a 1/4'' round over bit. A lot less chance of f'ing up the casing, and a lot easier to keep the router going around the arch smoothly.

[jim@miterclamp.com]

Both Whiteside and Velepec make much better looking beading bits than that one, which has a huge groove - way out of proportion to the bead radius.

That said, I just apply them separately. Running curved work through a vertical shoe on a shaper is a pain, unless you have dozens to do, and the standard router bit would not work anyway for that on a shaper.

[steve demetrick]

Much easier and straightforward to apply the bead separately, unless you want to play around with making up the jigs, which can be fun if you have the time. If you go for the applied piece, eastern white pine is a little easier to bend than poplar, and if you need to do a really tight radius, try a piece of elm. Whatever the species, try to rip it out of a straight grained piece of wood - more even bending and less chance of breaking.

-Steve

[Homer Jay Simpson]

What, no horizontal spindle shaper? How about the good old Williams and Hussey moulder? Are you doing it for fun or to make money?
Separate piece run straight and ripped from edge of board! And if the radius is to tight to bend run it from azek or build yourself a steam box!

[texastutt]

here`s the answer;
http://www.woodline.com/p-1534-point...-14-shank.aspx
gotta make a dedicated fence for the radius.

I would agree with this one. Just be careful of tear-out of the "back spin."

[Housewright]

if you've got a quirked bead detail, that bit isn't going to do it for you. It will round over the shoulder of the flat portion of the casing. If you aren't into making a custom fence for your router, you will need to run it seperate and apply it as suggested by others.

[dgbldr]

Many good suggestions, but we still don't know if the bead goes on the face or the edge of the arch, and which side - inside or outside of arch.