Would you cut tight miters on Ipe decking?

[Joining_heads]

Sapeli is really bad for getting sick. Feels like you've got a terrible head cold and some people get diarrhea (not me, but my coworker has more than once from it).

[Greg Di]

5-7 years back i was on a job in sonoma .one of the winery owners homes .they used ipe . pretty big deck .miters went where they wanted .they did not all shrink,though most did . i question wether you can pocket screw because it will destroy the bits .
side note,everyone who worked on it got ill.some had allergy stuff ,a few got flu's .

Ipe dust is nasty for sure. I never got sick, but it's a weird dust to be around.

I have pocked screwed Ipe successfully. The genuine Kreg bits hold up pretty well actually.

[kawendtco]

i made my spindles from ipe on a large deck. 5/4 x 5/4 came out beautiful, hard as plow steel to screw,drill, nail, dust about gave me a bloody nose, eyes swelled but the customer still loves there deck 10 yrs later!!!!

[S.Joisey]

That's a real nice deck, Kye. What kind of finish did you use? It really sets it off.

[Precision]

IMG_1330 Deck steps.jpgIMG_1328 Deck.jpgIMG_1327 Deck Miters.jpgIMG_1326.jpg

These are of a recent deck we built. The shorter lengths on the steps held together perfectly but the longer ones on the deck opened up a little, even more at the heel of the miter. Im thinking about cutting a kerf in the miter to match the deck spacing but am a little aprehensive because all the miters are dominoed together and I don't want to lose that connection. Still trying to come up with a solution, we try to avoid butt seams and end grain wherever possible so this is something I need to figure out.
Thanks for looking,
James

Geez, I didn't even look at the date, sorry for digging up a 4 yr old thread.

[Lavrans]

It's ok- still relevant.

I still argue against miters outdoors if you are in a climate that experiences humidity changes

[m2akita]

Could you run the kerf just something like a 1/4" deep to get the visual but still maintaining the domino connection? Guess you could play around with some test pieces to see results.

Your pics look good. Nice deck.

[S.Joisey]

Another thread on this:

http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...d+corners+deck

[Precision]

Thanks for the replies. I am thinking about the kerfs being approximately 1/4" deep, but you may still see the open miter below. Either way I will try it and get back to guys with the results. We just framed another deck and I am going to try a different approach on this one, Ill post those results as well.

On another ipe note, I have found the Ipe Clip brand hidden fastener to work way better than any other but still feel it doesn't have enough holding power.
On this new deck we are going to try face screws and plugs, in the past chiseling the pie plugs was a problem as some would break below the surface.
Theres a newer product out that I have used for my end boards that seems to work great. The system comes with a countersink but that is set to the specific depth of the plugs which minimizes chiseling and sanding. Two #8 screws in each joist has to hold better than the trim head screw and clip. Ill find out. If anyone has experience with these, Let me know.
Here is the link:
http://www.starbornindustries.com/pro-plug

[Precision]

Just had another thought, what about routing a 1/4" x 1/4" kerf in the miter then filling it with a piece of ipe, like cabinet joinery.

[Lavrans]

Simply put- you will not find any hardware or fastening system that will stop miters from opening and closing for more than a season or two.

If you want a miter that doesn't move on a deck, the only long lasting method is going to be a half-lap miter. Outside of that you can choose joinery that isn't affected (but joints) or that allow for some movement (leaving a deliberate gap).

Making a pegged tennon joint and allowing the boards to float can work, but that is unlikely on stairs.

[Precision]

Yup, I agree on the miters, maybe letting in a strip will help, I can always route it out later and replace it when we come back the next year to reapply penofin if that opens up as well. This next one I will leave the same spacing at the miters as in the field and see how that works/looks.
As far as the fasteners, I meant on the field decking to keep it from lifting. Ive had boards lift a little with the Ipe Clips, once they do that they are a little loose feeling under foot.

[tjbnwi]

I leave the gap (about 1/2 the field gap) in the miters also. I also round over the miter. If you are going to leave the gap, place a layer of Vycor on the top of the post. This protects the end grain. Awhile ago I got away from tight miters.

I have heard the gapped, rounded over miters refered to as pillow joints.

Tom

[Lavrans]

As far as the fasteners, I meant on the field decking to keep it from lifting. Ive had boards lift a little with the Ipe Clips, once they do that they are a little loose feeling under foot.

Ah, got ya. I haven't found any off the shelf hidden fasteners that I like much for Ipe or any of the tropicals. Screw & plug is good; if I chisel off the plug, I plan do so from fairly high and work down. Another good method is a flush-cut saw- the flexible Japanese style work pretty well. I use a stop for my countersink and make my own plugs. Cut the plugs just a little taller than the countersink and then just use a small belt sander to flush them off.