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I am building a new house and have 9 inch by 16 foot span of TGI beam and need to know at what location in the beam can I drill a 6-inch hole for installing duct work?n
You are a building professional, right? That means you are a building contractor of some type, or an experienced tradesman, or an engineering or design professional with experience in residential construction. You are one or more of these, right?
Because if the answer is no, you are not supposed to be here. This ain't no disco.
This documentation is from Trus Joist MacMillan's I-Level specifier's guide. The product name for their engineered I-joists is "TJI" and is copyrighted.
A lot of folks hear the name, their hearing is shot from shooting pneumo-nailers and firing up saws while not wearing hearing protection, they think they are hearing "TGI," and they give that name to ANY I-joist, even if it's made by Boise or Jager.
So beware, J Mysz, and pay attention to the brand. Whichever brand you use will have specs like those I have shown you here from I-Level, and those are the ones to which you must adhere.
Maybe you have it backwards. Here on cell block D we give some of the newcomers a special type of welcome.
Hey, you know, we've been siding and trimming a house and using your board and batten trim detail. Second time now. It works extremely well. I recently looked at a possible remodel where they did B&B but just nailed the trim over the siding. Fugly.
Bailer Hill Construction, Inc. - Friday Harbor, WA Website - Facebook
I am building a new house and have 9 inch by 16 foot span of TGI beam and need to know at what location in the beam can I drill a 6-inch hole for installing duct work?n
i dont think I would drill thru a beam at all if i could avoid it. as for the joists there should be a little book taped to the side of several joists, its called a pocket guide and it will tell you everything you need to know about building with TJIs.
Good luck finding a 9" I-Joist. I've only heard of 9-1/2". Roseburg's RFPI-Joists allow spans of 16' with a 9-1/2" joist depending on width/series and how it's being used (simple span or multiple span), deflection limits (i.e. L/360 or L/480 or even higher) and the load being used (i.e. 40/10, 40/20, etc.).
I'm working on a design now for a 24' wide house using 9-1/2" joists at 24" O.C. and it calcs out just fine, with very little vibration or bounce. I'm sure the Advantech subfloor will help it some extra stiffness.
I'm working on a design now for a 24' wide house using 9-1/2" joists at 24" O.C. and it calcs out just fine, with very little vibration or bounce. I'm sure the Advantech subfloor will help it some extra stiffness.
With an intermediate girder?
Tom
1) Unconsciously Incompetent: He knows not, and knows not that he knows not. He is a fool. Shun him.
2) Consciously Incompetent: He knows not, and knows that he knows not. He is simple. Teach him.
3) Unconsciously Competent: He knows, and knows not that he knows. He is asleep. Wake him.
4) Consciously Competent: He knows, and knows that he knows. He is wise. Follow him.
May we all endeavor to progress from not knowing that we know not, to knowing that we know.
Oh hell no, 24' free span. Those beams are way over rated.
I'm joking, of course I've got a center beam. I just forgot to include that in my previous post. W8x24 36' long with one or two posts, depending on how the point loads calc out.
I have to see how it all calcs out. I may even go with a heavier beam to get larger unobstructed areas in the basement. If I can get a heavier beam to work with one post, that's what I'll go with, but the lighter beam will get two posts.
I used a W8x28. It is convenient in that (2) 2x8 exactly fill each side so you can nail on hangers. Mine spans 24 feet and is the center girder for a floor that's 24 feet wide. It's nice and stiff. The equivalent glulam would have been a LOT larger and actually more expensive.
Edit to add: with a W8 beam you can use 2x10 floor joists or 9-1/2 I joists and neither the floor sheating or ceiling drywall with be in contact with the steel.
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