window & door trim question

**dgravlin** · 11-01-2007, 08:23 AM

We're building a custom home and because of the market downturn, we plan to do most of the exterior details ourselves. This is an obvious "newbie" trim question but I'd appreciate any feedback.

The windows on this house are from Loewen which use thick metal nail fins. The exterior trim (Azek or Windsor 1) will not sit flat since the nail fin is not close to being flat with the exterior shear. We will be using the Kreg tools to assemble picture frame style surrounds on the ground before mounting them.

So, my question is... in this condition do you back-cut or bevel the backside of the trim to allow space for the nail fin? Do you shim out the shear? Or is there a better way?

Any advice appreciated.

Dave

**gburnet** · 11-01-2007, 08:40 AM

I just plow a rabbet that's slightly wider & deeper than the nailing fin in the back of the stock. 2 passes on a table saw & you're in business.

**bread and roses** · 11-01-2007, 10:37 PM

good story. Thanks for sharing.

With a situation like that, where the house was obviously badly built in the beginning, it would seem tempting to just knock it down and start over. But people get attached to their houses, rot or not.

**Lavrans** · 11-01-2007, 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by bread and roses

good story. Thanks for sharing.

With a situation like that, where the house was obviously badly built in the beginning, it would seem tempting to just knock it down and start over. But people get attached to their houses, rot or not.

Hmmm. More messages winding up in the wrong thread I suspect?

**bread and roses** · 11-06-2007, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by Lavrans

Hmmm. More messages winding up in the wrong thread I suspect?

Oops, not sure how I did that. Thick nailing fins aren't THAT much of a disaster....

**Adam Greisz** · 11-08-2007, 03:50 PM

I think shimming the trim out is easier then back cutting for the fin. Depends on the reveals and how much trim you want proud of the window and cladding. Either choice works fine.

**David Meiland** · 11-08-2007, 06:34 PM

We're installing and trimming Loewen windows and doors right now. The trim is all 2x and I am making a 1/8 x 1-3/8 rabbet in the back to accommodate the nailing fin. I strongly advise making and installing one trim set first, rather than milling everything up. The exact rabbet you need will vary depending on whether you use wrap or felt, sticky flashing, etc.

If you are using 1x trim it may be better to furr out the back... depends on whether you want the window proud or not.

**David Meiland** · 11-08-2007, 06:35 PM

duplicate post... howzat happen??

**David Meiland** · 11-08-2007, 06:37 PM

I guess I wanna say one more thing about Loewen... .they will probably leak. We are installing either Flexwrap pans over cedar bevel siding, or sloped metal pans under all of them. Do not install them without a sloped pan of some type under them that can freely drain to the outside.

**BBBaldy** · 11-17-2007, 08:45 AM

[QUOTE=dgravlin;335082]We're building a custom home and because of the market downturn, we plan to do most of the exterior details ourselves. This is an obvious "newbie" trim question but I'd appreciate any feedback.

The windows on this house are from Loewen which use thick metal nail fins. The exterior trim (Azek or Windsor 1) will not sit flat since the nail fin is not close to being flat with the exterior shear. We will be using the Kreg tools to assemble picture frame style surrounds on the ground before mounting them.

So, my question is... in this condition do you back-cut or bevel the backside of the trim to allow space for the nail fin? Do you shim out the shear? Or is there a better way?

Any advice appreciated.

Had the same situation, we took a sheet of 1/2" Azek ripped it to width, then ripped it in half. Added the 1/4" to the two legs and head (allow for the flange) and then added a full 1/2" to the bottom piece. Made the bottom trim piece 1" longer on the sides to. Sounds like alot of work, but not that bad when you are set up and doing the work. GC and homeowner liked the detail insted of a flat picture frame style.

**!!sizzle** · 11-26-2007, 12:31 PM

The downturn also forced to take the job in our hands but for some reason it never seemed to be taking the right ways. I mean right from scratch there were problems and we could not proceed further. So this lets me ask to others here those of you who have taken this job in your hands did you all have previous experience in doing so? At least it seems to me without prior knowledge this is getting rather tough, what can we do to accomplish our mission?

**David Meiland** · 11-26-2007, 03:01 PM

Please fill out your profile.

**Kgphoto** · 11-26-2007, 09:50 PM

Sandy,

Yes, you better have prior knowledge AND experience before you take on a whole house. Otherwise you will save NO money and it will take a lot longer.

**cmm_88** · 11-27-2007, 06:24 AM

I allways plow out a rabbit in the trim for the nail fin but our new guy showed us a great trick.

Install the flat stock with s.s. trim head screws. Sink the screws in the trim material then back them out until the trim section is in the right plane. You will be amazed how much you can move the trim. Leaves a nice little drainage plane behind the trim also.

**Kye GC** · 11-27-2007, 06:45 PM

Originally Posted by cmm_88

I allways plow out a rabbit in the trim for the nail fin but our new guy showed us a great trick.

Install the flat stock with s.s. trim head screws. Sink the screws in the trim material then back them out until the trim section is in the right plane. You will be amazed how much you can move the trim. Leaves a nice little drainage plane behind the trim also.

Thats what I do. I use those damn things everywhere.

Kye

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