(Subject should have read: Toenailing TJI's as roof rafters..)
Hi all,
My daughter is having an old house remodeled, the house framer, employed by the general contractor, seems to have a love affair utilizing a rafter attachment method he calls "pressure blocking", in which he toenails using lots of nails with an air nailer, through one side of a solid wood #2 2x12, then placing the "pressure blocks" cut to length, in between the rafters, face nailing them to the ridge microlam, then nailing through the side of the wood joist, into the end grain of the pressure block. This is contrary to what was specced (metal joist hangars), on the architect designed roof plan.
To add to this, in another roof location, the same framer ran out of wood #2 Douglas fir 2x12 material, and is substituting TJI 210 Silent Floor engineered joists, using them as roof rafters, which is acceptable, according to Trus-Joist instructional handouts, providing all aspects of the manufacturers specifications are followed, detracting from which, would render null and void the LIFETIME WARRANTY of the TJI joist.
The problem arises that the framer is now using his pressure block method, toe nailing through the TJI web stiffener, (all plywood) which is an application of OSB, or oriented strand board, applied to each side of the TJI, to enhance the strength of the plywood web of the TJI. then plumb cut to the appropriate roof pitch.
TJI requires that when the joists (TJI) are used as rafters, and built up on the ends in this way, in a steeply pitched roof application, that a special metal reinforcing strapping be nailed a short ways along the top chord of the joist, at the upper end, over the top and down the back of the ridge beam, where the strap is then nailed. In addition to this, again due to the steepness of the roof pitch (about 10:12 pitch) there is another requirement that there be a variable pitch metal joist hanger, which is engineered for that particular truss, to be utilized.
Now the problem: we find the roof is now sheeted with the plywood deck, and suddenly the general contractors supervisor has realized that he may have MISTAKENLY taken the word of the framer, that the pressure blocking method of attaching the TJI's was acceptable, (NOT) and that only an application of the top metal strap (I could not find ANY applied when I looked at his work) would be sufficient.
The local city building inspector left copies of the TJI instruction manual with the framer, and he (the framer) apparently felt it might be beneath him to read the manual, and he knew more than the architects, and designers of the TJI's...
Now to my question:
Has anyone out there any experience with an issue such as this? And is there a good way to make it all work out. I hate to think that the roof would have to be torn out and done again, but leaving it as is, would void the TJI company warranty.
Sorry for the long post,
Thanks for any input, ahead of time!
Have a great day!
Lektrikgold
FYI: over 35 years in the carpentry trade: heavy, finish, certified welder, foreman, etc..now semi-retired
Hi all,
My daughter is having an old house remodeled, the house framer, employed by the general contractor, seems to have a love affair utilizing a rafter attachment method he calls "pressure blocking", in which he toenails using lots of nails with an air nailer, through one side of a solid wood #2 2x12, then placing the "pressure blocks" cut to length, in between the rafters, face nailing them to the ridge microlam, then nailing through the side of the wood joist, into the end grain of the pressure block. This is contrary to what was specced (metal joist hangars), on the architect designed roof plan.
To add to this, in another roof location, the same framer ran out of wood #2 Douglas fir 2x12 material, and is substituting TJI 210 Silent Floor engineered joists, using them as roof rafters, which is acceptable, according to Trus-Joist instructional handouts, providing all aspects of the manufacturers specifications are followed, detracting from which, would render null and void the LIFETIME WARRANTY of the TJI joist.
The problem arises that the framer is now using his pressure block method, toe nailing through the TJI web stiffener, (all plywood) which is an application of OSB, or oriented strand board, applied to each side of the TJI, to enhance the strength of the plywood web of the TJI. then plumb cut to the appropriate roof pitch.
TJI requires that when the joists (TJI) are used as rafters, and built up on the ends in this way, in a steeply pitched roof application, that a special metal reinforcing strapping be nailed a short ways along the top chord of the joist, at the upper end, over the top and down the back of the ridge beam, where the strap is then nailed. In addition to this, again due to the steepness of the roof pitch (about 10:12 pitch) there is another requirement that there be a variable pitch metal joist hanger, which is engineered for that particular truss, to be utilized.
Now the problem: we find the roof is now sheeted with the plywood deck, and suddenly the general contractors supervisor has realized that he may have MISTAKENLY taken the word of the framer, that the pressure blocking method of attaching the TJI's was acceptable, (NOT) and that only an application of the top metal strap (I could not find ANY applied when I looked at his work) would be sufficient.
The local city building inspector left copies of the TJI instruction manual with the framer, and he (the framer) apparently felt it might be beneath him to read the manual, and he knew more than the architects, and designers of the TJI's...
Now to my question:
Has anyone out there any experience with an issue such as this? And is there a good way to make it all work out. I hate to think that the roof would have to be torn out and done again, but leaving it as is, would void the TJI company warranty.
Sorry for the long post,
Thanks for any input, ahead of time!
Have a great day!
Lektrikgold
FYI: over 35 years in the carpentry trade: heavy, finish, certified welder, foreman, etc..now semi-retired
Comment