pnewmatic gun for shingles

[r couch]

whats the best gun for shingles, cedar sidewall not the 3/4 shakes but the regular old run of the mill shingles. i've always hand nailed but i have a bigger job coming up. i was thinking about a sheathing stapler as i have seen many guys around here use. but also wonder about the hitachi siding nailer that shoots something similar to a box nail. but it looks like a small framing gun to me and would probably split the shingle.

[Dancing Dan]

I use the Hitachi (NV65AH) - good gun. The Max is better but more $. They're very handy guns - I use it with SS nails for ext. trim, clapboards, etc.

[BC&C NY]

we use the duofast kdn50a..

[TSJHD1]

Another vote for the Hitachi. I just used it for sidewall shingles recently, and it works fine. Has a nice depth adjustment, and a removable no-mar tip.

Hey, welcome by the way. Put some info in your profile when you check back.

Tom

[gburnet]

I also like the siding nailers. We've got an older Bostitch N64 which has held up well, as well as a new N66 which I really like...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

The gun's magnesium so it's very light, got an excellent depth adjustment, adjustable exhaust, & takes both wire weld & plastic collated nails.

Greg

[r couch]

thanks for the quick replies. i'llprobably go with the siding gun but i am curious about the stapler. imean it holds more, and the staples cost less. tom i'll try to figure out that profile thing.

[mdannolfo]

At JLC Live Mike Guertin said that staples are the recommend and preferred method of installation for Maibec shingles. He said that nails acted as little wedges that could cause shingles to split over time. Staples have more holding power as well. I have a 7/16 stapler, Senco, and it works well, never jambs. I used Galvi staples, but Mike recommends stainless.

Here are my notes from the seminar. I jotted a few notes, but a lot were from memory. I think they are accurate, but if you see anything that looks suspicious, please let us know.

• 316 stainless staples for shingles. Galv electro plated can bleed.
• 7/16 min width. 1/2 “ good.
• Slate Ripper – shingle puller – use dremel and make edges sharp so cut nails and heads to make stripping shingles easier.
• Staples – 16 GA.
• Nail – 1” above exposure and ¾ from side
• Tape for gauge so know where to nail.
• Use in line air regulator to adjust staple guns b/c they don’t have depth of drive adjustment.
• Run a hose to staging then use a T off of it with inline regs for multiple guns.
• Shingle 8 to 10” wide takes two, not one, extra fastener. Direct the split this way and lead it away from subsequent course butts.
• Dry shingles leave 1/8 to ¼ gap for whites and reds. (I butt whites and space reds, but this is what he said for both)
• Joints offset min of 1 ½”.
• Offset of 2 rows min. code.
• To hold ledger on bottom course use coil aluminum and bend to a J and then cut off with util knife.
• Chalk – use white so don’t stain shingles.
• Cedar strips – stupid taken out. Great time savers.
• Rocket anchor chalk line holder. Great tool.

I know I didn't get everything, but it was a good seminar. There is any article in JLC about decorative shingles. I have not read it yet, but there are probably some good pointers in there from Mike Guertin.

Hope this helps,
Mike

[David Meiland]

I use a Senco medium crown stapler for cedar sidewall shingles... 7/16" x 1-1/2" stainless steel staples. Last time I did it I think the staples alone were $25 per square or something like that, not a small amount, but the gun does hold quite a few and they hold the shingles very nicely. Also have a siding coil nailer but I wouldn't use it for shingles unless the stapler was broken, as it's heavier, more awkward to use, and the nails cost more.

[Carl Sperry]

I use a Porter Cable medium crown stapler. I have the Hitachi NV65AH as well & a Stanley (I forget the #). If you ever install the Hardie shingles DO NOT staple them. It will void the warranty.

[Garbanzo]

I also staple them with galvies, and use stainless hand swingers for face nailing. I use the hitachi 7/16 crown and have used the paslode 1/2 crown. Of the two I prefer the paslode. To me the coil gun is OK, but the fasteners are more expensive, it takes longer to load, and I can't carry as many in my pouch. By the way the staples really hold well, for me they are the way to go. I believe 1 1/2 inch galv staples cost about $40 for a box of 10,000.

[cratylus]

I use a Hitachi stapler and the Makita nailer... both work well. The Makita has a removable no-mar tip, easy depth adjustment and exaust adjustment, and switches from sequential to 'continuous?' firing with the flip of a swith (no swapping out triggers)... Staplers are lighter, use less air, and the staples are cheaper. Stapled shingles suck to repair. I think I prefer nails, but that's probably the traditionalist in me talking.

[wolverineguy77]

another vote for the porter cable. a very lightweight gun and very easy to load. one problem ive found, its hard to get repaired, usually takes a couple weeks. The hitachi is also a light gun and very durable. the heaviest would be the bostich. a quality gun that can be shot extremely fast, but feels like you been doing curls all day(not 12 OZ curls).

[AKDK21]

I too am using the Makita siding nailer. I got it for installing barn shakes and eventually Hardie siding. It has not jammed at all, and the depth control has been very good.I used it on Azek trimboard and T-111 and it worked great.
The belt clip seems like a minor feature, but is very helpful.
Andy

[ELoewen]

I just bought the makita siding nailer , works great as long as i dont use the maze nails i bought at the same time, jammed up every 6 to 12 nails.
my partner on this job bought some off shore nails that work without any jams


July 06
checked the box today
oops, my mistake for jumping to conclusions , the box says "made in canada"