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  1. #1
    Gordon F. Tully Guest

    Default Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    When the outside wall is parallel to the joists, is the wall supported only on the rim joist? Does it matter whether the wall is 2x4 or 2x6? If a joist is added under the plate, is it spaced away from the rim joists? If so, who insulates the void that is created between them? TJI for example doesn't detail this condition. Thanks in advance for the info. If this topic has been covered before, please direct me to the chat.

  2. #2
    teasea Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    gordon you can dbl the rim or run blocking in the last joist bay @ 16 oc of same joist material,I like the blocking method for various reasons

  3. #3
    Bill H Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    When bearing is an issue with I-joists we use LVL stock as rim. A little pricy but no need for the pain in the neck squash blocks.

  4. #4
    Gordon F. Tully Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    Thanks for the notion of perpendicular blocking. I guess what I really want to know is whether anyone adds a joist spaced away from the rim, because it would create a void space; and whether inspectors require a double rim or blocking with 2x6 studs. Thanks in advance.

  5. #5
    Jim Eggert Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    When you add a joist where the ceiling/wall plane is to me its faster and cheaper than cutting and blocking and piecing in, etc. You can hold the joist a few extra inches in to accomodate insulation installation or very easily install good fitting rigid insulation in 2" increments.

    Jim

  6. #6
    greg zajac Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    Gordon- we normally use a double rim joist and no extra joists in this situation.I add the squash blocks to my inner piece and nail it up.I have been in to many situations where the insulation was to hard or impossible for the insulators to get in, so it came back to haunt me. Maybe I am old school, but if I can remedy a problem as I go, I'll do it. I don't think a lot of the subs coming after me really care about anyone elses work. greg in connecticut

  7. #7
    teasea Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    I like to point load every thing if I can, and the perpendicular blocking is point load from the start

  8. #8
    Ian Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    Perhaps I'm missing something but I have never doubled a parallel (with ext. wall) rim joist in my life. 2x4 or 2x6 makes no difference. Now, if in the wall there is a point load, that may require a block for that location only. I see no reason to double the entire joist.
    Ian

  9. #9
    greg zajac Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    Ian- All my TJI floor systems come with a layout showingwhere joists are used,microlams,hanger types and nailing schedule, and double rim joists under parallel exterior walls. Right or wrong thats what the engineer specified, thats what we do. Greg in connecticut

  10. #10
    Rich Brand Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    Hi all, I would be in line with Ian on this one. I always have my floors designed by the TJI distributor and have never, to date, been required to double a rim. We always use the timberstrand solid rim board, though, even if they allow a tji rim (cheaper). Another consideration: often the parallel rim occurs at a gable -end wall, if this were the case, the wall load alone would probably not endanger crushing the rim.

  11. #11
    John Bishop Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    We just went thru this last week. Our floor layout plan{TGI's} did not call for double rims but I feel that especially on a two story house plan, it's worth doubling up the rims on parallel
    walls. We also use the timberstrand rim material.
    I have also used solid blocking in the past but found too often the blocking interfered with either plumbing or heat runs. If the joist space is going to be too narrow to access later for insullation, we cut rigid foam panels to sandwich in between rims.
    On a one story house, no loads other than the wall itself, and 3/4" subfloor, doubling probably isn't as important, especially with the timberstrand rims. That stuff is pretty dense.

  12. #12
    George Roberts Guest

    Default Re: Supporting outside wall at parallel rim joist

    One should always do what the engineer requires.

    I suppose that the 1-3/4" nailing area of a single rim joist might be a bit narrow for some types of loading.

    Personally, I build the end walls taller so their tops are flush with the top of the joists. (one needs to be careful with the details because the top plates no longer overlap.)

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