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Temporary Jobsite Heaters

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  • Temporary Jobsite Heaters

    I am building a detached garage in SE Wisconsin. Needless to say, its a gettin bit nipply out there. I want to get the wrap on and install the windows and doors this weekend. After that Trim (stained cedar) and Siding (vinyl) remains.

    I am looking for advice on temporary heaters so I can pre stain and cut the vinyl in the warmth.

    Any advice or experiences you can share?

  • #2
    Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

    There's a radiant heating unit that attaches to an ordinary LP tank (like on a gas grill). It's small and quite portable. I'm not sure how well it works, but the Home Depot sells a good number of them here (Fairfield County CT).

    I moved here from Hilton Head, SC 2 months ago. I'm freezing my ass off. I think I might buy one.

    Dave

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    • #3
      Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

      Thanks for the reply Dave. I have seen the units you mentioned.

      I called the guy at the Pro desk at a local big box store and he said that the pros grab the kerosene models and the home guys the buy propane. As always, their advice is approached cautiously.

      Other advice has included things like: "The Kerosene models will knock you out with fumes" and "Suck it up, you snivelling wimp!" (OK, not really-but they may be thinking it ;-)

      Perhaps we both can get some advice on the better models here.

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      • #4
        Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

        uh.....i have two heaters one is a kerosene salamander,sounds like a jet plane when its burning but damn sure does the job.my other one is the radiant heater run off of propane works good for enclosed spaces

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        • #5
          Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

          Here in Westchester County, New York, we use a salamander(kerosene)for heat prior to getting the frame closed in. It typically holds about 5 gallons of kerosene, which lasts about ten to twelve hours. Kerosene can cost from $2.75 a gallon to over $8.00 a gallon, depending on where you buy it. While it puts out quite a lot of heat (depends on the size, we use 150,000 btu size), it is very noisy, and once the house is weathertight, the kerosene will give you a headache, plus you need power to operate the blower. It also has no way to regulate the amount of heat output. They are available at Home Depot for about $100. A propane "high hat" heater puts out an incredible amount of heat, can be hooked up to any size tank (we use 100 pound tanks), requires no electricity to operate, and can be regulated to your personal comfort level. They are available from Home Depot for about $100 also, but it does not come with the tank. Most rental stores will provide the 100 pound tanks if you buy the gas from them. I keep a "high hat" at home, in case the power goes out in the middle of a cold snap. Keeps the place nice and warm.

          Charlie

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          • #6
            Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

            Yes you can regulate the temp on a kerosene salamander heater. My local rental yard will provide a thermostat that plugs into power and then the heater cord plugs into the therm cord. Works great-just hang the therm up on a nail off the floor. If they are available at a rental center then I am sure that you could buy one somewhere for your own use.
            Our drywallers prefer a kerosene heater for temp heat source rather than propane. They feel that the propane units put too much moisture into the air.

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            • #7
              Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

              Danny,

              Thanks for the heads-up on the thermostat for heaters. I wasn't aware they are availble. I assume it just shuts the heater down when a certain temp. is reached, right? It doesn't actually regulate the amount of output, does it? Also, the observation about too much moisture in the air from propane heaters is interesting, although I've not run across it before. Most of the guys I have seen on jobs use propane. I guess the question becomes "Which is more aggravating, slower drying times or bad headaches?" Either way, it is definitely another consideration, particularly with the winter they are forecasting for this area.

              Thanks again for good information!

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              • #8
                Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

                Charlie,
                Yes, that's right, the thermostats just cut power to the heaters so they cycle on and off. Sorry that I don't have a specific brand or more info on them.

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                • #9
                  Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

                  If you use one of the kerosene blowers, which I do when necessary, it pays to send it out to be adjusted at least every other year, maybe every year depending on your usage. Many of these heaters will also burn #1 diesel if no kero is available. But once again, your heater has to run right.
                  The comments above on propane moisture are right on, they can slow down taping. but at least it is heat.

                  Jim

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                  • #10
                    Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

                    I use propane salamander and propane can heater

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                    • #11
                      Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

                      I use a 220volt 5000 watt electirc heater with a fan and thermostat. Propane pumps too much moisture into the rooms. And the salmanders sound like a jet taking off, not to mention the fumes.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Temporary Jobsite Heaters

                        for what it's worth, guys...

                        cut receptacle end off an extension cord ($12), or maybe an extension cord that you've repaired along the way with electrical tape.

                        get a 4"x4"x4" electrical box ($2), a romex cable insert for connecting the cable to the box ($.10), a 120v-rated heat only thermostat ($10) and a receptacle ($.30)with a cover plate ($.30).

                        open a knockout in the box that you pass the hot wire from your extension cord through and connect to the thermostat. connect a short length of 12ga wire from the other t-stat connection through the knockout hole. drill appropriate holes through the t-stat connection holes and fasten t-stat to the electrical box. connect neutral and hot wires to the receptacle using the side-mount screws on the receptacle and mount the receptacle and cover plate. now you don't need to rent a thermostat.

                        brian

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