If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below
ALERT - Threads Not Displaying
A large number of threads from the last 12 months are no longer displaying in the individual Forums. The technical team is aware of the problem and we are working to resolve it. We apologize for the inconvenience. Thank you for your patience.
Well, I've got the Unisaw pretty much done and in use.
Picked up a Biessy clone fence, an Exacta cut or Accufence, gives me a full 40" rip cut capacity. Built a maple/baltic birch laminated extension table, and installed a Biessy Overhead guard with dust collection.
The entire assembly rides on a welded mobile base with two layers of 3/4" BB plywood and yesterday I added a quickly restored/painted side tool box with drawers and shelves as an under-table saw cabinet for tablesaw accessories
Rolls around as smooth as can be and is very smooth running.
Last night I made a few zero-clearance inserts and incorporated a built in splitter.
Cheap and simple - I think these are a much more $$$ reasonable solution than $160 on a commercially made item.
Not hard at all to make, though next time, due to the number of steps, I'd probably make 5-10 of them as it's just as easy as making two of them.
The splitter is glued into the blade kerf at the end and has a taper on it to guide the wood centered. First time I've ever made my own blade inserts, it's a cool project.
I was a little unsure as to how to deal with trying too get them initially cut, as the Unisaw's blade when lowered is only a 1/16" below the table surface. Online, the prevailing advice is to use a dado blade to hollow it out.
But I found it was much simpler to adhere the blank insert to the top of the factory insert with double foam tape and than clamp a long pc. of wood over it on the front and back rails and simpler raise the blade into it while it's taped to the OE insert.
Next step is to put a routertable insert into the extension table.
I was hesitating, because of having to deal with building a fence, and also, because only 2 feet away I have a fully outfitted 3Hp Jessem routertable setup with full dust collection. But I also have a router table insert with a Bosch router that I use in my Bosch 4100 saw and as long as I have it, it might as well be parked in this Unisaw when not in use on a jobsite. And having two router tables can be very handy.
So I figured I'll skip on the fence altogther and simply make this router table extension only for piloted edge router bits - no fence needed.
And for dust collection, I'll simply make a simply dust hood that can clamp or screw to the router insert surface.
What did you use for material as your pictures do not show levelers.Greyghost
It's really too bad that you put all that time into a saw that you'll now have to scrap out due to a lack of Sawstop technology, lol. I've always enjoyed tool restoration projects with the exception of being coated with rust dust.