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  • stud layout, HELP!

    i have a question that many of you might think is stupid, i am an apprentice so here it goes... theres 3 ways of laying out for 16 oc studs ive heard of, they are : pulling 15 1/4 from the end and then 16s the rest of the way. Another way i heard and have seen was pulling all 16s and centering the stud on every 16" mark. The last i know is just pulling every stud at 16" and the X to the right (up the tape)....can someone explain each of these different ways to me and which one is the best?
    Also, does it matter if your sheathing/sheetrock is getting railroaded?

    Thanks
    Matt

  • #2
    Re: stud layout, HELP!

    I am not sure if there is a so called right way, as long as you do it consistantly. I personally hook my tape on the end of the plate and mark 15 1/4", then 16 3/4", then 31 1/4, then 32 3/4, and so on. I always put an "X" between the two marks so it is idiot proof for my "nailers". I was tought to layout all doors and window openings befor I laid out the studs.

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    • #3
      Re: stud layout, HELP!

      i look at my roof layout first, then layout.
      -Alain Bagagem-

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      • #4
        Re: stud layout, HELP!

        I just mark 3/4 short from the stud mark on the tape. That is simple and always works no matter what stud width I use (16" or 24").

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        • #5
          Re: stud layout, HELP!

          I;m with Alain and also once you get into reading the cartoons better you should check the shear schedule for shear walls, min sheet width , nailing, transfer, allo sort of stuff, My crew all layout the same way, when i let em, but I pull 15-1/4 or burn whatever your adjacent wall width is say 3.1/2 and go with it until a window or door, layout to middle of wall section , most likely a window or door, then pull from the other end of the wall to same window or door, this will give you full 48 inch shheet for shear, and also when you get to window, we just run full sheets then router, therefore tying the xt and header, less spoils and clean this way, instead of piecing in pieces, that's scabby

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          • #6
            Re: stud layout, HELP!

            Hey matt your boss should hold your hand for 10 minuts and run this over with you, if he letting you layout with these questions hes in trouble, fisrt day on any house I set the rules for everything, including layout who and what, one guy starts layout same guy finish, errors and this crew minimal, because of that one reason, 99 percent FU's come from layout. If you not 100percnet confident dont even shatrpen your pencil,

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            • #7
              Re: stud layout, HELP!

              first determine which side of house the layout will start. try to stack everything. then pull your tape and go 3/4" back on every 16" mark, until your tape runs out. then just go every 16" from there after.

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              • #8
                Re: stud layout, HELP!

                You really only need to pull your tape out for window/door openings. For stud layout I use a layout stick. www.bestconstructiontools.com/layoutsticks.html

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                • #9
                  Re: stud layout, HELP!

                  Originally posted by alainbagagem
                  i look at my roof layout first, then layout.
                  Correct, but you must also look at the floor framing unless you are on a slab. There are more than three ways of achieving a successful layout. The easiest way to learn this is going to be through an actual demonstration. The goal of the layout is to create an alignment between the sheathing and the studs for nailing purposes. If you are laying out a "long plate" (a long plate is the plate set that extends beyond the adjoining plate to create a corner) then you attach your tape measure to the end of the plate, locate the O.C. measurements you intend to layout (most commonly 16" red boxes on the tape) and mark your x at the box and back up 3/4" to mark the line. If you are laying out a "short plate", (this is the plate that abuts the "long plate" but does not extend to the edge of the foundation) extend your tape beyond the end of the plate by the equivalent measurement of the plate it is joining and mark your layout the same as you otherwise would. A shortcut for this is to place a block of plate material at the end of your short plate and hook your tape over the block. This will make it easier to maintain consistency throughout the length of the plate. There are many other variations and refinements in layout that you will need to learn. Observe the folks you work with and ask questions. If you are working with a good crew, they will share their knowledge with you. Also, you could get a few books on the subject. We use "Modern Carpentry" for the basics and build on information from there. Make sure you learn how to use your framing square properly.
                  Brad

                  You will never stand taller than when kneeling to help a child.

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                  • #10
                    Re: stud layout, HELP!

                    Simplest way for me is to mark 16 3/4" place the X to the left. Same thing with 32. 48 etc. Two foot centers 24 3/4" X to the left etc.This way you hook the tape,mark.
                    mike

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                    • #11
                      Re: stud layout, HELP!

                      what i have been doing all along is pulling 16" and marking the X to the right and then 32" and the X to the right and so on and so fourth. is doing this all right and will all ends of sheets (4'-0") wide land half on a stud? also no one answered my question, does using this method matter if your railroading or hanging sheets vertically. I rarely do wood framing, mostly i do all metal framing, does this make a difference or is it the same for both? sorry if i sound redundant.
                      Matt

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                      • #12
                        Re: stud layout, HELP!

                        Matt, your third way will put the stud edge at 48", not on center. You need the stud to begin at 47 1/4 and end at 48 3/4 to put 48" on center, in order to have nailer for the edges of both sheets of sheathing. I think it's easiest to make your marks 3/4" short of the red mark on your tape throughout the layout. Make a mark there and place the x ahead. Then go back and fill it in using your speed square. Ex. 15 1/4 is an edge, mark it, then make the x. Now 16 is center, 16 3/4 is other edge. The next one would be 31 1/4 = edge --mark it then make another x, now 32 = c, 32 3/4 = other edge. Etc.

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                        • #13
                          Re: stud layout, HELP!

                          i use the 3/4 before method (15 1/4x,31 3/4x,47 1/4x) and always layout with a tape. i have learned not to use a framing square or anything else because 1/16 of an inch x 32 = 2 inches and the plywood never breaks correctly. the only thing i use a framing square for is stair stringers, but i mark my diagonals first and use the framing square to connect the points.

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                          • #14
                            Re: stud layout, HELP!

                            seems and sounds like 15 1/4, 31 1/4, 47 1/4 with the X to the right and so on is the easiest way to go then.. i work with an old timer and he says to just pull 16s and put the X to the right. But you guys differ so im not so sure on what to do.
                            matt

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                            • #15
                              Re: stud layout, HELP!

                              Matt
                              Don't forget to allow for the corners when you but a wall into a wall that is in place so you don't mess up your sheeting on the outside.

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