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Well, first off, virtually ALL blades, on ALL saws leave kerf marks. True, some are deeper than others, and I have seen blades advertised that you can glue the joint without jointing it, but I've never seen one cut good enough to do that.
I think the better the blade, the truer the teeth are in relation to each other. That is, as each tooth comes around, it is directly behind the tooth in front of it and cuts exactly the same amount of material, in exactly the same plane. When you see real prominant marks, you could have a few teeth cutting slightly wider than the rest.
Another thing that can affect the quality of edge is any wobble in the blade, which can be the result of a saw that has loose bearings, or a misaligned shaft.
I dropped my subscription to Fine Woodworking some years ago, but they often had articles about truing your saw. I'd think that would be a real good place to start. They probably run an article like that every couple of years.
Although I've not tried this, I read once that if you adjust your blade approximately 1/32" further from the rip fence at the rear, it prevents kerf marks on your ripped stock. The leading edge of the blade would do the cutting, but the rear portion of the blade would not bind against the stock.