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Cross-Legged Door Problem

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  • Cross-Legged Door Problem

    I have a 2/8 door , going from the garage to the hallway @ the foyer, that is cross-legged because of the adjacent wall (about 5" long/wide/whatever) is o.o.p., about ½" on the strike side. This is giving me a gap at the top, where the door doesn't meet the stop/weatherstrip & letting in light. Here's the problem.

    The o.o.p. wall is load bearing, all walls & ceilings are painted, so I can't (or won't) correct the o.o.p. situation as this would also require changing an adjoining closet (base & shoe included) & wrapped opening to the kitchen where tile would then be a factor.
    Hardwood has already been layed to the threshold, so I can't tweek the bottom of either jamb to correct the condition. The only solution I have come up with, is to remove the brickmold on the garage side, top & strike side, do the same on the inside casing, cut any shims loose on the strike jamb & push the jamb to fit the door @ the top. I would then have to rip a tapered ext. jamb for the garage side & shave the jamb to the inside of the unit.

    Personaly, I think this is going to look like crap...... so I would greatly appreciate any other phenominal suggestions on this precarious predicament. My only other solution is to go to work for H.D.

    Tried not to ramble but wanted to give enough info to paint the picture. Hope I succeeded with both. Thanks in advance.

    By the way...... it closes Monday!

  • #2
    Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

    Don't ya just hate it when that happens? It's a real PITA no matter which route you take at this point. A couple things you might try to "fix" your problem.

    My first thought would be to raise the entire door unit so it sets on top of the hardwood rather than abutting it. You will probably have to cut part of the header out, then fill in under the threshold, but this might be the easiest route to take.

    Or...Use a fine adjustment tool (12# sledgehammer) and adjust the plates on each side as much as you can without causing serious damage. If you're lucky, very lucky, you might be able to get 1/4" on each side. Then, if further adjustment is needed, cut out or crush the sheetrock on the brick mould side (since it's thicker and any variance would be less noticeable). Of course this method is not the best, but given your circumstances, you don't have many choices.
    "Success is not final, failure is not fatal. It is the courage to continue that counts." Winston Churchill


    • #3
      Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

      reset hinges for the amount in skew
      make a tapered shim to glue to door stop if not removable , sand flush.
      reset weather stripping.

      or sledge hammer corners, heavy clamps can wrack poorly set frames then screw jamb in finial place.


      • #4
        Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

        Ditto Mike's suggestion. You should be able to get most of it with the hinges. You can also use a rabbeting plane to tapper the existing stop, if it's a rabbeted jamb. It doesn't take much. If you've talking about a 1/2 in. gap at the head on the strike side, move the bottom hinge out about 3/16, move the top hinge in about 3/16, and plane the stop from zero at the bottom to about 3/8 at the top. That should get most of it. Or you could plane the stop half that much and add a tappered shim, too, so neither the shim or the new rabbet would be THAT visible. Lots of ways to split the difference on a door.


        • #5
          Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

          why not yank the door and replace it with a prehung.most likely the header is packed down an inch and a half and you should have enough room on the sides to set it the way it should be and probably raise 3/4 , re-case, and pop some base shoe on?

          doesnt sound like a big deal. split the diff on the jamb to the drywall and caulk and paint and say bye bye if it closes monday. GL


          • #6
            Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

            Just an update on this problem. I reset the hinges as suggested & it worked beautifully....except, I still had about a 3/8" gap all the way across the top (this was/is really a screwed up door). So I re-reset the hinges by raising the door 1/4" & this seemed to solve it. Then I noticed light still shining through but this time under the door from a 1/4" gap between the sweep & the threshold! Go figure *%@#&x~$!


            • #7
              Re: Cross-Legged Door Problem

              slap in a stanley if yer sellin the place.

              Its easier to yank and replace in 2 hours than the time youve spent so far messing with and typing about it.


              you may have to spend 300 bucks but its over and done and it works really nice. :D