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Thicker miter saw blades

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  • Thicker miter saw blades

    I searched this site and everywhere else for non thin kerf miter saw blades but came up short. I recently upgraded from 10" slider to a 12. I'm already thinking that was a mistake for finish work. After practicing with the supplied dewalt "fine finish" blade and 3 brand new Freuds, I can't consistently make straight cuts on pieces wider than 5 inch whether I plunge cut, push, etc. I can definitely see why this saw is popular with framers when a few thousenths in an angler cut wouldn't be noticed but I'm not able to turn out finish quality cuts. I'm certain it's because a larger diameter blade of the same thickness Is much more prone to wobble. So now I'm looking for thick kerf, quality finish blades but they seem to be extinct. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  • #2
    I would check to see if the wobble is because the washer or the nut has some debris behind it. Then I would check to see if the wobble is in the shaft.


    • #3
      Forrest makes a 12" Chopmaster with 1/8" kerf.


      • #4
        Thanks, I'll try one. There's no wobble when the blades spinning in air, (at least not with the Freuds, the Dewalt that come on it was horrible) but the resistance when contacting wood causes deflection no matter how light and slow I go. Not saying that it's not partly my technique, but lots of guys have more problem with deflection, or "stacking" with bigger blades. They're more flexible.


        • #5
          Deflection is not the same as "wobble". Wobble is blade runout (lateral or radial). Deflection can be reduced with thicker blades or (if the saw allows) a stabilizer.
          Also make sure the blade you use is very sharp and has a tooth pattern and number of teeth best suited to the cutting you do.


          • #6
            If you are getting excessive run out you can clock most of it out with a dial indicator and a little patience. Deflection when entering the wood is common in thin kerf blades. It could also be that the material isn't pressed down tight enough to the saw table and moves slightly as the saw enters or a problem with the grind on the blade.

            I run 12" saws almost exclusively and run full kerf industrial blades tensioned for cutting miters designed for commercial art framing. Pretty much eliminates the deflection as the blade enters the material. I also frequently elevate the outboard ends of my saw wings which gives me a little extra leverage to push the material down hard enough that it won't move when cut.