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Finished interior door casing installation with adhesives

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  • Finished interior door casing installation with adhesives

    I'm installing plain 1x3 maple door casing that I have previously finished. It will be installed as style and rail with no reveal. I would usually use an 18 gauge brad nailer to install leaving tiny holes in the casing that then need to be dealt with. It occurred to me that, on interior doors, as I have access to both sides of the jam, why not install the casing using adhesive and clamps. No nail holes to fill and touch up. Question is, has anyone had success with this? Does anyone see a down side? What adhesives have others used? I was thinking of PL but there may be others that are better.

  • #2
    I have never tried this method, but an adhesive we use on balusters, E6100 is the latest and greatest. It would need to be clamped during setup, but after an overnight cure, you should be all set.

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    • #3
      Thank you tarzangus. I guess the concern is, in the future, if the trim ever has to be removed.

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      • #4
        I have used adhesive and nails on pieces that I need to install around known water pipes but it usually baseboards so there is not a way to clamp. I have used a prop or two from across the room to help hold the board as the glue dries.

        I do have a couple of questions. How many doors and how many clamps you going to need? Why not do a combination like I am suggesting? use the glue and a few less nails..How much time does it take to fill 2 dozen 18 ga nail heads?

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        • #5
          Thank you m beezo. It's not so much the filling with color match filler as it is the light sanding afterwards and attempting the invisible touch up to the finish to match. I have 8 interior doors to trim and plenty of clamps. I could install with nails, fill and then finish in place but that's going to be a lot more time and effort.

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          • #6
            Let us know how it works for you when you do this job. Keep track of your time and effort and see if you think it pans out for both a better job and a better way of doing it.

            As for the time it takes to fill and then sand and touch up filler I use a filler that does not really require sanding and touch up except on really bad nail shots. I use a colored filler,, be really careful with how I apply it and can usually use a dry rag to wipe off any excess and not need to sand and touch up. I am also very careful with how and where I place my nails, often trying to install them in some part of the trim where a crease or line is so that they can kind of disappear.

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            • #7
              The trim on this job is all clear maple 1 x 3 with no reveal and no stain. Not much hiding room. I think I'll try both methods. The only real down side I see with adhesive is the mess someone will have to deal with if the trim ever has to be removed - pocket door mechanism maintenance for example. The best match I've found for the maple is Elmers natural wood filler. Drys a dull Matt finish compared to the satin finish though.

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              • #8
                I could imagine that the adhesive and clamp method could be a huge time burner (especially if your maple/wall is not perfectly flat and you need a lot of clamps). Another downside that I could foresee is adhesive squeezing out once you clamp it.
                www.kylezach.com

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