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Making Toe Kick Grill

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  • Making Toe Kick Grill

    Hey guys. On nearly every job, I have to create a toe kick supply on one or more of the cabinets. What I typically do is cut out the toe kick and then spray paint a metal toe kick grill to match the color the of the cabinets and screw it on. I have a job where the home owner would like the toe kick supply to look more like it is part of the toe kick. Meaning not using a metal grill. I've toyed with the thought of marking it out on my toe kick and then methodically raising my table saw blade up to cut the slot, then moving it over and raising the blade again. Continuing this until it looks like a wood toe kick. Problem is, there will be raw edges. The touch up kits are not made to be staining, or painting large areas. I hope this isn't too confusing, but do you have any ideas or tips that will help me?

    Thanks

  • #2
    give the owner the price for making the custom removable toe kick grille. That will bring him back to your original plan, or just purchase one pre-made. Of course pre-made will sit proud of the cabinet kick.

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    • #3
      Cut a 1" wide slot along the top of the TK just under the floor of the cabinet. It can't be seen from anywhere. Length of slot(s) can be sized to allow significant airflow.

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      • #4
        you must have some heavier toe kick than I usually get with a cabinet order. Most of it is 1/4 inch thick at the most. Cutting a bunch of slots in it would make it break first time you kicked it it would seem to me.

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        • #5
          Here's a similar item that would adapt, This post I did years ago on walking light covers. Same idea, different function and size. Although you won't need the backer piece. This is Cherry -- I don't have the piece here right now ( in storage ) -- but I think about 5/16 or 3/8 thick

          http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/f...g-light-covers

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          • #6
            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1067359[/ATTACH]

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            • #7
              We do as wabeeman described, the width of the whole cabinet. The problem with wood registers or perforations is that you need to make it much bigger than the prescribed sheetmetal register. Both wood louvers and drilled panels have a much smaller ratio of open airflow area to total area than do metal louvers. You need to consider that when you design that detail.

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              • #8
                Ed, did you make that or it that something that you buy for that particular cabinet. And how thick is the material that this is cut out of.. I am guessing you make on site since you cannot know exactly where the grill is going to be. needed. That is why cutting it all the way across the bottom of the cabinet would solve needing to know where it gets placed.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by m beezo View Post
                  Ed, did you make that or it that something that you buy for that particular cabinet. And how thick is the material that this is cut out of.. I am guessing you make on site since you cannot know exactly where the grill is going to be. needed. That is why cutting it all the way across the bottom of the cabinet would solve needing to know where it gets placed.

                  Beezo,

                  Fabricated the cabinets myself. Toekick material was 3/4" thick. Got the idea how to do it here.

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                  • #10
                    Ed, I saw the pictures on contractorstalk and it looks nice. I was wondering how nice of a hole you would get with a mortise chisel set. The kind that fits in a drill press, you drill out the hole with a drill bit and then cut the rest out with the square chisel. I have never used on but suspect that doing multiple holes like that you would have to be pretty lucky to not split out the wood you want to remain.

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