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8" cedar bevel siding

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  • 8" cedar bevel siding

    Hi everyone-
    I am doing a big remodel project at home and will be using 8" cedar bevel siding. Just curious how to best nail this product up? SHould I install so that no nails are visible from the outside; i.e. I will have 6" exposure for each section. SHould I then nail siding to house just above that point so that next course covers the nails from course below? Or is it best to center the nails on the siding and then the nails are visible...?? ALso, I would like to leave this siding unstained and unpainted since I like the rough-sawn look and natural wood. How long do you think this siding will last untreated and do I have to use stainless steel nails?

  • #2
    Re: 8" cedar bevel siding


    Nailing procedure should be as follows. Nail approximately 1" to 1 1/4" above the butt(bottom). Nail 16" on center(on the studs) that's important! I would try to have the siding long enough so you dont need a joint to span between your corner boards. If a joint is necessary use a scarf joint on the studs. By this I mean break the joint on the studs so you have somewhere to nail. Thats important. A scarf joint is a joint that is cut at an angle. I would use 22.5 degrees. A butt joint will come apart over time. If you are using corners build them on the ground and then put them up. I would recommend putting the caulking on under the siding and then lay the piece into the caulking instead of putting it on after the boards are up. Use a poly sealant. Your local paint store will have it. This looks so much better. Dont worry about that leaving a 1/4" gap crap. Butt the siding tight to the corners and trim. Wood shrinks over time, and then you will have your 1/4" gap. When nailing nail flush since you are leaving the siding natural. Use a 8d stainless steel ring shank nail. I recommend Maze nails. If you dont use stainless steel you will get streaks and rust spots. Ring shank nails hold real good. Be sure to put your window and door trim on first and then the siding not the other way around. As for leaving the siding untreated I DO NOT recommend this. I know the exact look you want and it will turn gray in 2 or 3 years if you dont seal it with a clear coat. You could seal it before you put it up or roll it on when you are done. Stay away from spraying. To much prep work. I would also pre prime your trim before you install it. This saves time and hassles down the road. Any more questions feel free to email me and I will be happy to help out.

    Carl Sperry


    • #3
      Re: 8" cedar bevel siding

      I agree with much of what Carl says but I don't get the part about caulking the siding in place. I know of several failed paint jobs with caulked siding. Or the 22.5 degree angle. Why not use 45 degree? I prefer butts because the inevitable cupping of boards opens a scarf just as much as slight shrinkage opens a butt joint. In any case building paper or wrap aids in deflecting water. Why not suggest siding over furring strips?


      • #4
        Re: 8" cedar bevel siding

        Definitely need a system of housewrap/tarpaper and window & door flashings.
        What Carl says about nailing works for me.
        We don't scarf cut our joints, just butt the ends.
        All bevel siding should be back primed. I strongly recommend against leaving bevel siding "natural". It will not stand up to the stress of sun & weather. If you want the natural look, check out the Sikkens brand of finishes.


        • #5
          Re: 8" cedar bevel siding


          I just replaced some 1x8 diagonal redwood siding on a house that I built 24 years ago. We butted the joints back then, but now, with the new SCM saws, we did do 45ยบ compound mitre scarf joints on the ends. It does do a better job (particularily on diagonal siding), but the negative is that it is difficult to nail the thin edge without splitting the redwood. We ended up using finish nails on the thin ends.