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Maybe try 2" thick rockwool batts adjacent to the pipe and a layer of 1" shaftwall drywall next to that followed by the finish layer of drywall. Wherever the pipe penetrates a joist, isolate it with foam pipe wrap. Thick and dense materials will go the furthest in killing off this sound.
Otherwise you could use a high density fiberglass and a mass loaded vinyl mat but the material is significantly more expensive than the drywall and rockwool approach.
In my house I used sheet lead in a 2' roll supplied by my plumber. It has worked great. I would think that the 1" "core board" as we call it around here would work well if you have the room to inset it.
Core board is also referred to as shaft wall, a 1" gypsum product sold commercially in 2' x 8' lengths.
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I've got to agree with you, when ABS became legal here for DWV I used it in a two story home, after it was complete the customers invited the wife and me over to dinner, ostensibly to show their appreciation for the house. In the middle of dinner one of the twin children excused himself, got up from the dining room dinner table, went upstairs and flused a toilet, it sounded like Niagra falls in the formal dining room. I got the message and sent some men back, tore out one side of the 5/8" sheetrock and had the plumber put cast iron between the floors. Shortly after I was building a hospital and when installing the lead-lined sheetrock in the radiation suite I noticed the tremendous sound deadening effect, I always wondered if I had just put another layer of lead-lined sheetrock on that wall if it wouldn't have saved me a lot of time and money; however, I've read the specifications on the lead lined sheetrock and USG says nothing about sound attenuation, I've called them and they just say they've never tested it for sound deadening. That was the one and only time I've ever used plastic pipe (except for perimeter drains around the foundation on the outside of the house).
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Lead does work well, again because of the density, but the last few sheets I bought about 5 months ago were in the $ 12.00/sf range. The shaft wall is much cheaper and is readily available at any decent drywall supply yard. As RJ described and as I inferred in my earlier posting, the shaft-wall would be inset between the joists or studs on wood furring or perhaps 25 ga. utility angle screwed to the side of the framing.
As commodity prices have come down recently, we may see the lead price decrease in coming months as old inventory gets sold off.
And each time someone slammed the door in that partition, a little more sand leaked out of the stud bay ....
We told the GC we thought that would happen, but he insisted. The reason pvc and abs make so much noise is that the pipe resonates like a guitar string as the water runs down the inside of the pipe. The water spirals down the pipe and causes it to vibrate. What you hear is an amplified sound. Shorter pipe higher pitch, longer pipe lower pitch. Smaller diameter, higher pitch, larger diameter, lower pitch. I would think low expanding foam shot into the stud cavity would dampen the vibrations enough to virtually cut out the sound.
If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say, "If I had a dollar for every time....", I'd be a rich man.
The shaft wall is much cheaper and is readily available at any decent drywall supply yard. As RJ described and as I inferred in my earlier posting, the shaft-wall would be inset between the joists or studs on wood furring or perhaps 25 ga. utility angle screwed to the side of the framing.
Wouldn't a couple of layers of standard 5/8" drywall work just as well or better than core board?? Sure, core board is not hard to get, but how is it going to be better? Seems like two separate layers would give better sound-dampening anyway.
"If you only have a hammer, all problems look like nails"