JLC-Online Forums http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/ The JLC-Online Forums help construction professionals share ideas and get answers to their questions about business and technical topics. en Wed, 16 May 2012 22:52:43 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/images/misc/rss.png JLC-Online Forums http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/ Stud Finder http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60191-Stud-Finder&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 20:40:30 GMT Is this one any good. I have a stanley fat max that works good as long as the texture is not very heavy. I would like one that works better. http://www.franklinsensors.com/ Is this one any good. I have a stanley fat max that works good as long as the texture is not very heavy.

I would like one that works better.

http://www.franklinsensors.com/ ]]> Lamar Horton http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60191-Stud-Finder How to Make Ceramic Tile http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60189-How-to-Make-Ceramic-Tile&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 07:21:35 GMT The raw materials used to form tile consist of clay minerals mined from the earth's crust, natural minerals such as feldspar that are used to lower the firing temperature, and chemical additives required for the shaping process. The minerals are often refined or beneficiated near the mine before shipment to the ceramic plant.
The raw materials must be pulverized and classified according to particle size. Primary crushers are used to reduce large lumps of material. Either a jaw crusher or gyratory crusher is used, which operate using a horizontal initial step in ceramic tile manufacture involves mixing the ingredients. Sometimes, water is then added and the ingredients are wet milled or ground in a ball mill. If wet milling is used, the excess water is removed using filter pressing followed by spray drying. The resulting powder is then pressed into the desired tile body shape.
Squeezing motion between steel plates or rotating motion between steel cones, respectively.
Secondary crushing reduces smaller lumps to particles. Hammer mill or muller mills are often used. A muller mill uses steel wheels in a shallow rotating pan, while a hammer mill uses rapidly moving steel hammers to crush the material. Roller or cone type crushers can also be used.
A third particle size reduction step may be necessary. Tumbling types of mills are used in combination with grinding media. One of the most common types of such mills is the ball mill, which consists of large rotating cylinders partially filled with spherical grinding media.
Screens are used to separate out particles in a specific size range. They operate in a sloped position and are vibrated mechanically or electromechanically to improve material flow. Screens are classified according to mesh number, which is the number of openings per lineal inch of screen surface. The higher the mesh number, the smaller the opening size.
A glaze is a glass material designed to melt onto the surface of the tile during firing, and which then adheres to the tile surface during cooling. Glazes are used to provide moisture resistance and decoration, as they can be colored or can produce special textures.
Once the raw materials are processed, a number of steps take place to obtain the finished product. These steps include batching, mixing and grinding, spray-drying, forming, drying, glazing, and firing. Many of these steps are now accomplished using automated equipment. ]]> Ceramic Tile janevictory http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60189-How-to-Make-Ceramic-Tile What is going on with suppliers???? http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60188-What-is-going-on-with-suppliers&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 03:36:58 GMT I don't want to get too wordy with this but in the last four weeks I have had some bad experiences with suppliers.

I am usually very precise in ordering materials and try to think of all the possible things that can go wrong. The long and short of it is that I want the supplier to understand exactly what I expect of the product, when I need it and how much it will cost.

The first incident occured when I ordered some custom wood flooring from a supplier 1000 miles away. Not the first time I dealt with him. Material was ordered in November and I told him we would probably need it in late Feb. and I would call him in mid Jan. to firm up a delivery date.

Like any remodel job, unforseen issues,(unrelated to my original contract), delayed the job and I duly advised the flooring supplier. I advised that a new delivery target would be end of March. Although the delivery did not arrive until the the second week of April, the real issue was that the order was 600 sq.ft.short of the contracted amount. This shortage was on an order for 1600 sq.ft.. How do you miss that ???? The supplier was notified and apologized and promised to get the balance of the material out "soon". The next delivery came 12 days later and was still short 100 sq.ft.. I still have not received the balance but at this point the floor is finished with the material that had been sent. The problem is, I paid for the 1,600 sq.ft.

Problem two..... A supplier I have used for years was given an order for three fiberglass prehung doors with thresholds designed for handicapped access. The doors got delivered yesterday and when the back of the delivery truck was opened, my eyes immediately focused on the thresholds and
to my disdain... wrong thresholds!!!! The driver showed me the paperwork and everything I specified was entered on the billing and included the thresholds I wanted. What happened???? The supplier offered to get me the correct thresholds and asked if I could replace them????

Today's incident was the best yet. I need several sheets of cherry plywood with a rotary cut face veneer. I drive 22 miles to supplier #1 to find that, despite what they told me last week, the veneer on their plywood is plain sliced, not rotary cut. I then call 3 other suppliers and ask for rotary cut material. All of them tell me their material is plain sliced.

Finally, I call another supplier about 110 miles away that I have used for some difficult to get materials. This is a century old co. serving the NY metro. area as well as the boat building industry. They are a major supplier of rough lumber,trim and plywood with access to a lot of exotics as well as a wide range of domestic species. I ask the same question that I asked of the other suppliers...do you have cherry plywood with rotary cut face veneer. I also add that I am coming from a distance. The answer was an affirmative with the added..."We have 20 sheets".

I am sure some of you have already guessed at this disaster. I made the trip and get to the order desk....110 miles away and ordered and paid for the material, still being very emphatic about the "rotary cut" part of my order. The clerk said nothing that would dash my glee about having found the requested material and took my payment and directed me to the yard. I hand my slip to the yardhand and again emphasize the fact that my order is for rotary cut. He hands down a sheet from the upper level of the sprawling warehouse and of course it is plain sliced veneer...NOT ROTARY CUT. He responds with a "this is what we stock". Dejected, I pick the best of the sheets and drive 110 miles home. A tersely worded email will be sent to the main office and followed up with a phone call tomorrow.

The really sad part of this event is that their sales catalog describes and pictures the differences among the various methods of cutting veneer. Maybe no one there ever read it!!

Anyone else having these problems????

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- ]]> Trade Talk calvert http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60188-What-is-going-on-with-suppliers best primers http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60187-best-primers&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 03:28:26 GMT Guys it is that time of year when I get to do a fair amount of painting, mostly outside. I guess because of the economy I am not doing so much entire houses but may do several projects around the house. It could be painting a rusty iron handrail, some peeling paint on window trim, patched stucco,... Guys it is that time of year when I get to do a fair amount of painting, mostly outside. I guess because of the economy I am not doing so much entire houses but may do several projects around the house. It could be painting a rusty iron handrail, some peeling paint on window trim, patched stucco, newly installed gutter boards, etc. Looking for something that I can carry with me and feel it will cover most everything that needs primed without needing 3 different types of primer.
Have been using a fair amount of Zinnser's Cover Stain and have been quite happy with it. But wondering if there is something else that will work better or as well. ]]> Mbeezo http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60187-best-primers anyone using Armour wood from Lowes? http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60186-anyone-using-Armour-wood-from-Lowes&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 02:28:22 GMT Saw it today at my local Lowes store. Looks promising.........smooth, pre primed, cheaper than Azek. Anyone use it yet? Wonder if it lasts as long as the advertisement claims? Saw it today at my local Lowes store. Looks promising.........smooth, pre primed, cheaper than Azek. Anyone use it yet? Wonder if it lasts as long as the advertisement claims? ]]> dale rex http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60186-anyone-using-Armour-wood-from-Lowes The argument against Modular http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60185-The-argument-against-Modular&goto=newpost Wed, 16 May 2012 01:13:05 GMT In my area, in recent years, there has been a large amount of modular residential construction. As a whole, I'm not impressed with the product due to inferior products and workmanship. Saying that, I do have some first hand experience with the buildings, building decks and making changes after they are set as a subcontractor.

My eventual business plan is to get into traditional homebuilding, but as a whole it seems a large percentage of the customer base, especially the middleclass, is headed toward the modular concept. I believe that this is mostly price driven. But I'm not sure that the homes are all that less expensive, maybe just sold better, and presented with the correct smoke and mirror tactics.

Is anyone else running into a similar situation? Has anyone refined an articulated argument against the concept of modular? Anyone done any good cost analysis of modular vs. stick building? How about panelizing?

Thanks,
Nate ]]> Business Strategies Nate E http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60185-The-argument-against-Modular Polyelastomeric masonry paint on a baked metal roof? http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60184-Polyelastomeric-masonry-paint-on-a-baked-metal-roof&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 17:23:23 GMT I have been using acrylic polyelastomeric masonry paint to fix some stucco rentals in Davis, CA. I found that it works just fine on siding and garage doors. This one house has one of those metal roofs from the late 70's made to look like tile. I want to paint this roof with the same paint. It would look sharp.
Then I got to thinking, this paint, which I get free at the recycling center, which is ultra-fantastic for me, looks and acts an awful lot like the white roof stuff, just tan, not white.
Am I missing something, or, on this normal pitch roof with no puddle areas, could I claim some white roof benefits by using this paint, and for this one house skip the desert tan acrylic polyelastomeric roof coating which is expensive? ]]> Exterior Details GeorgeTurner http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60184-Polyelastomeric-masonry-paint-on-a-baked-metal-roof Sage 100 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60183-Sage-100&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 17:00:23 GMT Just saw demo of the Sage 100 software aka Sage Master Builder. From the demo it looked like Sage has put some effort into this. I especially liked the work flow charts for each part and/or phase of running a construction company. It looked like QB on steroids. Anyone else have any info or... Just saw demo of the Sage 100 software aka Sage Master Builder. From the demo it looked like Sage has put some effort into this. I especially liked the work flow charts for each part and/or phase of running a construction company. It looked like QB on steroids.

Anyone else have any info or opinion on this new release? ]]> Business Technology parkwest http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60183-Sage-100 NuHeat/Leveler/WetBed Question http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60182-NuHeat-Leveler-WetBed-Question&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 13:36:50 GMT So, I'm doing a tricky install that has me a little stumped. It's a bathroom where the main floor is flush with the shower floor (no curb). I'm planning on doing a wet bed for the whole area. But a NuHeat mat is also spec'd for the main floor area, which would raise the height above the shower. Can I install the mat inside the wetbed, or do I have to put it on top? ]]> Ceramic Tile Carolyn215 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60182-NuHeat-Leveler-WetBed-Question <![CDATA[mahogany T&G finish]]> http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60181-mahogany-T-amp-G-finish&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 13:07:22 GMT When installing a mahogany T&G porch floor, I like to coat each board all six sides prior to installation.

Downside is the boards become scuffed during installation. And it is tougher to set them tight due to buildup of finish in the grooves.

Ideally, I'd second coat them after installation, but oil finishes don't dry properly when second coated (On my next deck, I'll be using Messmers for Hardwood.)

Any solutions?

I'm considering using Woodlife Classic as the 1st coat before installation, since it says it won't interfere with top coats. Then the Messmers after installation.

Has anyone tried this? ]]> Exterior Details S.Joisey http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60181-mahogany-T-amp-G-finish HOW TO FLUSH DNS in WINDOWS VISTA and WIN7 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60180-HOW-TO-FLUSH-DNS-in-WINDOWS-VISTA-and-WIN7&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 06:43:16 GMT Start at the Windows search prompt - at the START button.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25674[/ATTACH] (Don't know why but thumbnails are no longer showing up - scroll down to find the attachment. - JLS
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name: FLUSHDNS.jpg‎ Views: N/A Size: 69.9 KB ID: 25674  
]]> Business Technology Library jstoddard http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60180-HOW-TO-FLUSH-DNS-in-WINDOWS-VISTA-and-WIN7 best glue for metal to wood? http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60178-best-glue-for-metal-to-wood&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 00:35:46 GMT What type(s) work best for joining steel to wood? What type(s) work best for joining steel to wood? ]]> charles http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60178-best-glue-for-metal-to-wood Jack miter jig http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60177-Jack-miter-jig&goto=newpost Tue, 15 May 2012 00:01:14 GMT I have a recessed panel wainscoting job coming up with a beaded profile. I'm thinking jack miters are the way to go but don't have a whole lot of experience with them. I want to set up a jig like I've seen Gary use but am unsure of the correct router bit to use. It looked like he used a modified chamfer bit but others suggested using a different type but I couldn't get the archived links to work to check them out.


Is this the type of bit I'm looking for?

http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pro...&ProdId=36635&

Or something more like this?
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2081...on#information ]]> Finish Carpentry dlhunter http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60177-Jack-miter-jig Sawzall blades http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60176-Sawzall-blades&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 23:38:24 GMT This isn't a shill post but just letting the bros know about discountsawblades.com. I bought 25 9" demo blades at 2.00each last month and contrary to what I was expecting they were a very good blade. Just ordered 30 more today. The best part is that they are made in the U.S.
Ron ]]> R James S http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60176-Sawzall-blades Piecework...? http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60175-Piecework...&goto=newpost Mon, 14 May 2012 20:54:54 GMT Possible job interview this week for a company doing exterior trim work for new homes. I found out that there is an initial hourly rate paid and then after a break in period, they'd switch me over to a piecework rate. I'm not sure what to think about doing piecework. I think I'd do ok with the $$, but not sure how it affects the end product and general quality. It seems to me like its an encouragement to just throw it up and get as much done as fast as possible, but I don't have any experience with this sort of thing. Any stories/advice? ]]> Finish Carpentry Loren97 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?60175-Piecework...