http://forums.jlconline.com/forums The JLC-Online Forums help construction professionals share ideas and get answers to their questions about business and technical topics. en Thu, 24 Jul 2008 01:23:50 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://forums.jlconline.com/forums http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43837&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 23:39:06 GMT Anyone know anything about using stainless fasteners with galvanized steel? Anyone know anything about using stainless fasteners with galvanized steel? ]]> Building Science DrewHH http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43837 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43836&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:36:53 GMT i just posted the same message in tools and equipment but figure this one is more appropriate.I just bought a home with a 3 yr old summer/winter hookup oil heater. Due to the price of oil i am seriously looking at converting to a more cost efficient system. Coal i here is very efficient. What... i just posted the same message in tools and equipment but figure this one is more appropriate.I just bought a home with a 3 yr old summer/winter hookup oil heater. Due to the price of oil i am seriously looking at converting to a more cost efficient system. Coal i here is very efficient. What are you r thought on the best bang for your buck. Are there any good websites for comparative analysis? everything in the house is hot water baseboard ]]> Building Science stjcarpenters http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43836 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43835&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:21:54 GMT I just bought a home with a 3 yr old summer/winter hookup oil heater. Due to the price of oil i am seriously looking at converting to a more cost efficient system. Coal i here is very efficient. What are you r thought on the best bang for your buck. Are there any good websites for comparative... I just bought a home with a 3 yr old summer/winter hookup oil heater. Due to the price of oil i am seriously looking at converting to a more cost efficient system. Coal i here is very efficient. What are you r thought on the best bang for your buck. Are there any good websites for comparative analysis? everything in the house is hot water baseboard ]]> stjcarpenters http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43835 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43834&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:58:05 GMT I am reviewing a plan that calls for 2" foam glued to the walls with 2x4 metal studs butted up to the foam with R-13 batts in the cavity. The plan also calls for 2x4 sleepers over 6 mil poly with rigid foam in between the sleepers and 1/2" plywood on top.

I have a few concerns:
A There is vapor barrier under the slab to begin with, adding another layer will moisture from the curring slab to the perimeter then walls. Wont it?

B Could I or has anyone installed 5/4 x 4 sleepers over continuous 1" foam on the slab? Then I could float the floor on the foam and give a small air space in between.

C If I did take this route, could the wood sleepers warp and pull up or does a or will the glued sleeper and plywood act in unison and stay stable?

D The walls seem like over kill and expensive. Couldnt I just use 2x3 unisulated studs against the R-10 foam walls? The use of both plus a vapor barrier seems nuts too me.

I am pricing per plan but if I could offer better construction at a lower cost It will help my bid. The metals studs alone are almost double wood.
Thanks ]]> Top Notch http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43834 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43833&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:34:37 GMT anyone use the trim-tex drywall crown moldings? How would you price a job using the moldings? anyone use the trim-tex drywall crown moldings? How would you price a job using the moldings? ]]> twinz3950 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43833 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43832&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:51:15 GMT I'm currently on a job with B & B siding. The boards are 1x10 with 1x3 battens.
What is the best detail when the boards met at a 90degree i/s corner ? I can think of several options-full board out of each corner, batten in each corner with adjacent full board, and several more. Just wondering if there's a "right way. Thanks ]]> Exterior Details Norm Yeager http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43832 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43831&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:04:09 GMT Good morning all.
I have a customer that would like me to install 13" x 13" ceramic tiles to the floor of a small, 4' x 14', second floor, wood frame balcony off their master bedroom. No posts like a deck but cantelevered from the house. This will be the second time it was tiled. The first time was with a slate tile that the home owner only sealed once, and unfortunately water got thru and really made a mess of everything underneath it. I removed everything down to the 2 x 8 joist and started over. I sistered all joists with a second 2 x 8 for strength, to provide a slope for water to run off and to repair some rot that had eaten the tops of the existing joists. On top of that 3/4" exterior grade plywood and on that a layer of self adhesive roof membrane. I'm thinking a 1/2" backer board next and then perhaps a vapor barrier such as Redgard. My questions are as follows: 1. Is tiling an exterior wood frame structure a sound idea. 2. Do any other members have any experience with a project like this. It'd be nice to know if I was on the right track. 3. How would one go about finishing the perimeter where the tile meets the edge of the balcony? 4. What about freeze / thaw cycles?
Sorry for the long thread but I have more questions about this job than I have answers. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. ]]> Ceramic Tile BlakeS http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43831 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43830&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:39:21 GMT I need a 7.5 Kw, 13 HP, generator for back-up power at home because we have a well(and lots of other stuff). There will be very little job use. After much searching and research, I've decided on a Honda engine with a pull start. Now the choice is between a North Star from Northern Tool for $1400 total cost or a Black Max by Coleman from Sam's Club for $1000 total cost. By specifications, they are the same. Are Sam's club and Coleman going to be reliable? Thanks. ]]> Trade Talk Phoenix Renovation http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43830 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43829&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:31:58 GMT Joe
Spam is here, and until bandwidth charges are applied it won't go away.

My question is, I receive between 3-5 spams each day from the same source. This actually involves 3 diff spammers, but I'll stay with one as an example. Each of these spams for some bonus cra. within the context of the email has 3 boxes, which my setting do not download unless I pursue it. The reason I know it is from the same spammer is each of these has a numerical code, each spam is different number, and if you opt to continue you will get to some website.

I assume each of these spams is somehow setup based on the number to get the spammer a fee each time someone actually goes to the website. I can't fathom any of these websites paying the spammer to do this work upfront, so they must be doing one of these post my link and I'll post yours??

For grins I saved the last 4 weeks of this shi., thinking I'll have time to actually go to a site, and complain about this so-called service promoting(sic) their business!

Perhaps I'm just venting, but a construction company doesn't need &*&^%knitting yarn, as an example.

Have you heard anything positive about possible spam changes we can look forward to in the future? ]]> Computer Solutions James Eggert http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43829 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43828&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:02:21 GMT Need basic information concerning material and methods Need basic information concerning material and methods ]]> Building Science dtyree http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43828 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43827&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:43:51 GMT In the past I have always tried to obtain about a 12% profit, based on the cost of construction. But in my area, building has all but stopped completely. Which means more guys are out trying to hustle up some work from an even smaller pool of opportunity. For a while now I have been talking with... In the past I have always tried to obtain about a 12% profit, based on the cost of construction. But in my area, building has all but stopped completely. Which means more guys are out trying to hustle up some work from an even smaller pool of opportunity. For a while now I have been talking with a couple who want me to build their house. I have given them a rough idea of what it would cost, but soon we will be at a point where they want to know the exact price.

I think you could give a set of plans to several builders, and they would all have a similiar construction cost. I think there would be different numbers for overhead, and given the economy, I know there would be different prices on profit. My question is this: How has the economy, and the availability of profitable work, affected what you will take work for? Do you take a 5-6% hit just to keep going? Or do you recognize that you provide a quality experience that the competition does not, and should be fairly compensated for it? I'm sure that the answer varies based on the changes in your work load, but overall is there a difference in anticipated profit? I am facing a dilemma that I'm sure most of you have - I want to maximize my profit without completely pricing myself out.

Thanks for any input.

Bill- ]]> Business Strategies billfromill http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43827 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43826&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 07:37:10 GMT Hi,
My client is purchasing several doors from Cantera Doors. These doors have a tube steel jamb, no flange and are installed by screwing through the jambs into the framing. The location of these doorsrs gets a lot of weather (wind driven 'rains in the winter. I'm in CA). There is no flashing detail available from the manufacturer. The sales rep told me to wrap the RO with bituthane and use spray foam insulation in the space between the jamb & framing. In researching polyurathane foam, manufacturers state that it is waterproof, but not in emphatic terms. I've installed wood jambed doors (w/o a flange) by kerfing the weatherside of the jamb and installing metal flashing in the kerf and applying bituthane over the metal. But the steel frame has me a little puzzled. Anybody have any suggestions? Installed these doors? I really don't want these doors to leak.

Thanks! ]]> Exterior Details skluch http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43826 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43825&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 06:08:26 GMT I just wrote a lengthy reply describing my truck setup on the thread http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=43823.

As I did this I thought other might like to see how I set my truck up. It works well for me and I don't mind if others see it and use some of the ideas.

I thought this might be a good long term thread on how we [all] customize our trucks to make our work easier since this seems to be a recurring thread maybe we can keep it in one place.

The pics were too large to upload here so i created a Picassa album. http://picasaweb.google.com/da64099/TruckPictures

So... If you are interested - add your notes on how you outfit your truck to make your work easier and more efficient.
Maybe it will help somebody else. In this economy any ideas to make our work more easier, efficient & profitable are always welcome. ]]> Dave-A1 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43825 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43824&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 03:58:11 GMT I am helping to finalize some details on an addition I will be starting within a month in San Carlos, CA (south of San Francisco). We're replacing an existing deck that was accessed from the upper story of a two story home with an ~18'x18' addition that will have a floating Ipe or composite deck over a waterproof surface. We're installing an Endless Pool inside the addition. Here are my questions:

1.Roofing option #1:Sounds like EPDM is a good product. Does anyone know if the new ptdf formula will attack the rubber? This product would require sleepers directly on top-any suggestions to pad the membrane? It seems like EPDM would make it difficult to use railing posts that aren't installed outside the fascia.
2.Roofing option #2:Has anyone used the Kemper Systems coating? I'm building a house in the Oakland Hills where the architect spec'd this product for a similar situation. She came up with a creative design where the sleepers normally installed over the membrane are attached to the plywood. The Kemper coating is applied over the plywood and the sleepers. The removable deck panels are held together with a seperate set of sleepers that do not touch the membrane but fall between the waterproofed sleepers (the decking itself lands on the waterproofed sleepers). This allows better drainage, but it still seems like the waterproofed sleepers will be suseptible to wear.
3.Any better suggestions?
4.I would like to use TJIs parallel with the direction of the slope (perpendicular to the house). Would the best way to slope the plywood be to slope the TJIs or install tapered strips over them?
5.Since the joists will be installed perpendicular to the house, I think it would be impossible to vent this assembly. I'm planning on using an unvented assembly with SPF under the plywood and an extra vapor barrier coating under the SPF due to the pool humidity. Any input?

Please answer any part of this you want! ]]> Exterior Details getmeoutofsfbay http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43824 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43823&goto=newpost Wed, 23 Jul 2008 03:52:34 GMT Hello! I am looking to upgrade my tool transportation system in the next few years, and would like some input on removable fiberglass truck bodies, specifically the Durashell 365, Spacekap Plus, or the Cargobody Tall Texan. First, here is my current configuration. Right now I am driving a 2006... Hello! I am looking to upgrade my tool transportation system in the next few years, and would like some input on removable fiberglass truck bodies, specifically the Durashell 365, Spacekap Plus, or the Cargobody Tall Texan.

First, here is my current configuration. Right now I am driving a 2006 Toyota Tundra, regular cab 8' box. I have a cab-high fiberglass topper installed, with full-length opening side windows. I have Kargomaster material racks installed. I also tow a small trailer around, larger enough to hold my air compressor, table saw, worm drive, recip saw, nails, screws, caulk, glue, 2 pair sawhorses, etc...

What I don't like about my current configuration is that every time I want to carry lumber or plywood I must strap it to my racks. This isn't horrible, but it's not much fun in Minnesota winters, and is more time consuming than just throwing it in the back of my vehicle and slamming the doors shut. I also don't like towing a trailer.

For awhile I was considering a Dodge Sprinter, but after adding up the vehicle price and upfitting options a Sprinter just seems to be out of my price range. That leaves me with the choice of either an intermediate sized trailer (6x12 to 7x14), or a larger, removable fiberglass shell. I'm leaning towards the Durashell 365, but I wonder if anybody has had any experience with these units? Thanks!!

Tom

http://www.fleetwest.net/ds365.html ]]> Carapace79 http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43823