View Full Version : Blind nailing

Mike Nathan
04-12-2002, 07:48 PM
We have maybe 2000 linear feet of 1x6 vg fir to install on a cieling. There is sheetrock first, then 1x3 painted strips 2' o/c then our wood with a 1/2" space between each 1x6. I was thinking on using construction adhesive with headless nails as a method of fastening, but the longest Senco makes is 1 inch. The idea I'm longing for is no nails showing. Screws and plugs are too slow and would be seen. Face nailing is not acceptable. biscuits are a option, but alignment could be a problem. Long sprigs 1 3/4" might work.? So the question is, how do I fasten alot of wood to walls and ceiling without nails showing?. The finish look has the appearance of a pallet, except we are using clear V.G. fir. This is not T&G.

Paul P
04-12-2002, 10:09 PM
If it is going to be on the ceiling why not use 18 ga brads? The painters should be able to fill them so they are not noticed from the floor. If you are gluing the brads would only hold it till the glue dried - 1 or 2 nails every 24" would work. My thought is titebond would hold as well or better and be easier to use while installing on the ceiling.

Gary Katz
04-12-2002, 10:24 PM
How tall is the ceiling? Would 18ga pins (2 in.) really show up? They're so small and just one every few feet until the glue dries? Little drop of glue and some saw dust and the hole is gone. I'm stumped otherwise. Or...a mixture of hot glue and liquid nails, though I'm not sure I'd want that hanging over my head! Though that new polyurethane hot glue is something else. I've mixed it with Titebond II with good results--the hotglue for instant bond, the titebond ii for the future.

Mike Nathan
04-12-2002, 11:43 PM
Thanks for the reply.
We are not allowed to face nail unless we have to. Ceilings are 9 & 10 foot. This is one of those places where the architect controls the looks totally. The other carpenters have been using the Senco 18 ga. 1 5/8 nails and nailing into the edge at a 45 degree and using construction adhesive. Breaking the edge bugs me. The hot melt may be a method for temporary bonding. I've heard that the heads of the brads on Senco nails can be ground off and then shot. I'm going to try this on Monday. The idea is to have minumum of fasteners showing.
On a side note, they say there is not good wood anymore. On this job, there is 3x6's @ 25' to 30' pure clear, straight and in VG fir. at least 40, and more in shorter lenghts. We have a bunk maybe 2, of 1x6 t&g at 20'. I bet the growth rings on some of it is 50 to a inch.

Derrell Day
04-13-2002, 05:47 AM
If the architect controls the look he should be asked to provide specs for fasteners and method.
Put the ball back in the monkey's cage.

04-13-2002, 08:41 AM
I think that the problem with grinding the heads off the gun nails is that the driver of the gun is going to make a hole as large as the original head anyway.
The hot glue/construction adhesive sounds like a good bet. I've used a polyurethane construction adhesive that was impressively strong.
The wood sounds nice.

Mike Nathan
04-14-2002, 12:37 AM
I think that if the heads can be cut off then I'll space the drive off the wood. I guess then I'm back to just using nails.
Senco makes a new headless pin nailer which I'm going to borrow and try this week.
Since I'm playing a sub at present, It's actually up to the trim foreman and us to come up with things that work and look good. Your point about the arch is correct.

james johnson
04-14-2002, 01:23 AM
could you attach the painted 1x3's to the back of the 1x6's on the ground then lift to the ceiling and fasten between the 1/2 inch gap with colored decking screws? ( heads painted white)

Mike Nathan
04-14-2002, 12:23 PM
1x3's are screwed to ceiling and painted.
Thanks for the input. We like to push the limit for looks sometimes.
I'll post my results of the headless nail experiment this week.

Paul P
04-14-2002, 06:02 PM
Mike it sounds like the work you do would be nice to see. It would be nice to be able to post pictures

04-14-2002, 08:01 PM
How about shooting some nails, with low pressure, so they don't sink into the ceiling. Then clip the heads so the nails are sharp on the other end, and tap the wood onto the nail. With adhesive of course

Just an idea...

Danny Waite
04-14-2002, 11:44 PM
I have good luck with taking the drivers out of my trim guns and then grinding down the profile on the sides of the tips to more closely match the diameter of the nails. Most drivers have a flat wide profile at the tip that is about 3/16 to a 1/4 inch wide which leaves an ugly hole when the nail is shot home. I only relieve the driver back about 3/16 from the tip. I have done this to a Senco SF1, SFN40, 2 Bostitch 18ga guns, and an Hitatchi 16ga trim gun. No problems so far and a much smaller hole to putty.

04-15-2002, 09:41 AM

If you use a wood adhesive like Titebond, it will be more than strong enough by itself. Drive 18ga brads shallow while the glue sets, and pull them afterwards.

Mike Nathan
04-20-2002, 10:01 PM
Danny, this was recommended to me by a cabinet man
Thurs. I cut off the heads of the nails and they still drove the nails well. I tried a accu set pin driver and it worked well also, but they are small as straight pins. Monday I'll grind the driver and see what happens. I have a SFN-20. I'm game for anything better then plain face nailing. I still have a 1000 sf of pre finished paneling to run in the the basement.
Thanks I think this idea will work.

Mike Nathan
04-22-2002, 08:30 PM
Danny, your method works great.
Thanks MJN