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Just had a estimate to do some sheetrock and texturing. Some existing wall are staying. The wall are currently flat and will be texturing. He recommended to prime all before texturing and then to prime again after or 2 coats of paint. I am a electrician and have never notice priming before texturing. Is this the best way to go prime twice. I want a good job done don't mind the extra cost if it will help.
Sounds like your man is trying to do a top quality job. With out priming first the patch work would likley show through. If it were mine I would do as recomended. Prime, texture, prime, and then paint.
05-23-2004, 10:33 PM
I hear this theory often. How can the sequence prime, tex, prime, paint be superior to tex, prime, prime, paint? Why would patches show thru if you primed *after* texture but not if you primed *before*?
What I usually do:
1. spot prime patches (wall board, i.e. unpainted walls), texture,
3. (heavy) paint.
Maybe that's what Doug is asking.
A good painter can leave alot more paint/coat than an amateur. Why does priming before texturing work better than after, it seems to me you are covering a good prime job (that seals the surface) with a new layer of material that needs to be primed.
I never like substituting good paint for primer (i.e., skip priming after tex and paint twice).
The one thing priming before texture gives you is a more uniform texture, but usually isn't needed or noticeable (except when it's drying, you can really see the joints/patches that are sucking the water up - painted walls take much longer to dry).
05-24-2004, 05:45 AM
I've done it both ways, and speaking from experience the only way to go IMO is to prime,texture,prime,topcoat(assuming your using a paint other than flat for a topcoat).
What you are saying is the same as I am saying. Depending on the patched area you only need to prime or spot prime the bare dry wall or mud not ncessarily the entire wall. Many times it is easer to prime the entire wall then prime several spots. The poupose is to have the entire area absorb the moisture at the same rate. The same applies to new drywall. The paper surface absorbs moisture at a diferent rate than the joint compound. this is what can causes joint shadowing. This is not currently as bad as it was several years ago, but can still happen. It is diffuclit to guess exactly what conditions on the job will cause joint shadowing. Temp,humidity, moisture content of the rock, type of joint compound, type of texture ect. all play a part. How well you prime also plays a part.
06-10-2004, 10:17 PM
You should prime before texturing to equalize absorption. If the final finish will be flat you won't need to prime again
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