View Full Version : Office Soundproofing
04-16-2004, 10:32 PM
I'm remodeling a garage into a home office. Client wants office to be as tight and quiet as possible. We only have 2x4 walls to work with, and the exterior is stucco. I'm thinking about sheathing the interior with 1/2" ply or osb (after insulating of course) and then following that with sheetrock. Would it be worth it? Would two layers of rock be better? I'm posting this on building science also, so don't tell me to. :)
PS. I've also heard that running a bead of rubber (rubber caulk?) on the studs helps because it cuts down on sound transmission through the physical connections. (drywall-stud-siding) Has anyone had any experience with this sort of technique?
04-16-2004, 11:27 PM
Have you explored the option of using the metal channel on the walls. The osb will not do much at all other then cost a bunch. The metal channel will most likely give you your the most efective reduction on sound transmission
04-17-2004, 01:55 AM
we use the metal channel then a layer of soundboard then sheetrock over that
Over the years I have sound proofed many DR. /Lawyers / offices, Etc. The calk you talk about is acoustical sealent, and it can be a gooey mess. I use it when specified but think it dose little good. Dustin is right a metal sound channel installed at right angles to the framing, a layer of sound board and then rock. You can use accoustical sealent around openings and between the rock and sound board if you want.
04-22-2004, 08:30 PM
I agree with the above except: insulation will actually increase sound transmission. In this case you probably can't skip it.
don't *back to back* outlets.
You can get even better sound attenuation if you add a double wall with the studs staggered - then do the RC+sound board
I think the caulk stops the hi frequencies, which are less problematic.
I have reciently become involved in a retro fit sound deading problem in a motel. The original archectial design was ignored and a standard 2X6 wall was built with fiberglass bats and back to back outlets. The result is that you can hear EVERTHING !!! Before I was broght in to the project an insulating contractor removed the fiberglass bats and used a dense pack fiberglass blow'n in to the wall. I was suprised it worked fairly well, but not well enough to suit the owners needs by it's self. We are now adding sound board, resilent sound channel, dry wall, and moving the outlets.
The morale here is when you pay an expert folow there advice.The construction supper saved 300 a room when built a year ago but his descision now is costing the owner over $1000.00 a room to repair the problem.
04-26-2004, 11:34 AM
Sound can be attentuated best by mass or creating "disconnects" between spaces (the principle behind the staggered studs or the metal hat channels). Two layers of rock add mass to the wall and can do great things for controlling sound. Watch for HVAC ducts too. Cold air return ducts are a common noise culprit. It is possible to construct baffled return ducts to reduce sound transmission too.
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