View Full Version : 9 ft wall tape joint
I have some 9 ft walls to hang and tape in a couple of weeks. So far the customer in not willing to spend a few more bucks for the 54 inch drywall so it looks like we will be doing two 48 inch pieces with a 12 in piece. I have always seen it done with the strip in the middle of thw two pieces. In other words a full sheet on top, a full sheet on bottom with the 12 inch piece in between them. My question is is that the best way to do it? I was thinking that if you would stack the two pieces and put the 12 inch piece at the top you would always have tapered edges to tape to. You have to get to the top to do the corners anyway so why not tapered pieces? By doing it the other way you have one joint tapered and one that is tapered on one side and not on the other side. this joint sometimes seems difficult to get to dissapear. Am I missing something with how it is done. I also thought that a seam 8 ft in the air might be easier to hide if the seam does not turn out too good than a joint that is 4 ft or almost eye level. Am I missing something here?
06-23-2003, 12:20 AM
Yea your client is mising something in that if you are in an area where 54" sheetrock is readily availible there is no what they save any $ by not using it, what?? is your labor free?? Anyway if you have to use 48" sheets when we have to do 9" walls with lots of natural light we will rip sheets in 1/2 and put the 24'rips at the floor, than a full sheet and then rip 12"off another sheet and put the 36" at the top. this gives you seams to finish at 2' and 6' and you use the 12" rips up either as window and closet wraps or in window walls that have relatively short runs. We put the 12" rip in the middle and bevel the bastard edge and prefill with hot muds before taping. there is no getting around having twice as many seams to finish, so not using 54" sheets in the first place is nuts. I can usually charge almost 15% less per ft2 on 9' work using 54" sheets.
06-25-2003, 04:34 PM
I find it hard to find 94 inch available around here, unless I want to order a whole lift. Since I am usually only doing one or two small rooms, it isn't worth that to me.
I find it hard to believe that there is much difference in price between the sheet sizes that wouldn't be saved in labor costs. I frquently buy whole sheets of 4x12, rather than use 4x8 even on my smallest jobs, to avoid seams as much as possible. I am pretty fast as a finisher, but three coats on a seam is three coats, not to mention double the nail/screwing time, taping, fitting, etc.
06-26-2003, 02:44 PM
I only put the 12' wide strip in the middle in less conspicuous areas like short areas between windows. The 2' rip followed by a full sheet and then a 3' rip is a good method. That way you are only wasting 12" and even that piece can be used on another wall if you put it along the bottom or the top. Too bad the manufactors don't make a 12" wide strip of drywall with each edge beveled. The 54" drywall is the way to go but it is only available 12' long.
06-26-2003, 06:49 PM
Beez,not sure how much board you need, but using 10ft sheets standing up has never bothered me. you guys all know this method has no butt joints or bastard joints,and most commercial work specifies installation done in this manner[fire-code].We usually do most garage walls in this manner also.Good Luck JohnNH My labor is immensly more important than a few $ of drywall!
06-26-2003, 10:46 PM
What Kevin said.
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